Q & A: Ask the Trainer
Mike Rueb, CPDT weighs in on your Training and Behavior questions.
Michael Rueb has his CPDT (Certified Pet Dog Trainer) certification and is the Manager of Animal Behavior and Training for all Bideawee. Mike has introduced several new Bideawee programs, open to the public, such as Puppy and Kitty Kindergarten classes and affordable one-on-one training.
Mike's work for resident canines and felines has enhanced the quality of life of the animals here at Bideawee. Under his leadership, Bideawee's Behavior and Training Department has significantly reduced the number of animals returned after being adopted and has brought Bideawee to the innovative forefront in community education and high-quality care for Adoption Center animals.
My boyfriend and I rescued a 1.5 year old dog from a shelter 4 months ago. When we are in his presence, he is the sweetest thing and very friendly around our family and friends. But we have come to realize that if one of us is not nearby, he becomes a completely different dog. He will bark and growl and will not let anyone near him. What can we do to help him feel safe around family members and friends even when we're not around?
It is a wonderful thing when someone adopts a dog from a shelter, as many times these dogs are in need of a good home and consistency in their lives. Many times, shelter dogs are victims of misunderstanding, and as a result, the prominent beginning of their lives (which is most important for their development) does not start off well. They often go from home to home, stopping in between at different shelters. Once they are fortunate enough to find caring adopters, they are subject to bonding very closely with their social group (you), and have a hard time accepting different people. Your dog has most likely found comfort in you, and is able to let his guard down when he has you as a safety net. When you are not there, he goes back to his default defensive behaviors, acting scared or aggressive, as he knows this will keep the unknown away. Here is what you need to do:
1. Find out what his intentions are. Very often dogs will show threatening behaviors to get out of an unknown or scary situation, as this is the first thing they learn to do, and it works. You may need help from a professional to do this, as it can be tricky to identify in some cases.
2. Build his confidence. You have to help facilitate this. For safety and effectiveness, you need to start associative learning with your dog (classical conditioning). This means simply offering something of high level reward to the dog, when strangers are around, especially when he is acting friendly. You may want to start with someone you know is dog savvy. By simply allowing the person to approach him and offer something like a food reward when he is calm and confident will help start the process of positive thinking in your dog. Your dog may have anxiety, and pushes it away when you are there because he knows you have control of the situation.
3. Allow others to walk your dog and interact. Start with you being around, and increase the distance you are from the the person and your dog as he shows the ability to cope. Obviously, you need to do this with someone who shares positive experiences and feelings about your dog. Gradual increase in distance is important, because in may cases of fear and anxiety when you go to fast it can hurt your progress.
4. The situation is key. There may be a correlation of his fear of people and where he is at the particular time. For example, in some cases dogs can be more defensive and protective in their home environment, as in the case of territorial behavior. He also may be more defensive when you are not there, as he feels he has lost his protection, and has to defend himself.
5. Socialization. Socializing is best done in a puppy. However, you can still help him understand that people and things are inherently good by doing a lot of positive association and conditioning. Remember, it may take a while, as behaviors are hard to change, especially as the dog becomes older.
This is a very common situation in shelter dogs. Understanding what you are dealing with is key. Sometimes it is just insecurity, and other times it can mean more.
It is very important to seek help from a professional positive trainer when you are unsure. Be safe. If you need further help you can feel free to contact the behavior department at Bideawee: 516-785-7822 ext. 314.
I have a nine year-old ragamuffin cat at home. Due to a death in the family, I am taking in two seven year-old wheaten terriers. I am concerned about the cat getting along with the new dogs—can you shed any light on the subject for me?
In most cases a cat will defend herself (and her territory) very easily—and a dog will comply. Do not scold your cat when he hisses or swats at the new dogs; this is important for the dogs to experience so they can learn. I would advise to be more sensitive in a situation like this if the cat has a medical problem that could worsen with stress or if the dogs have a known history of high prey drive behavior. Either way, make sure they are separated when you are not home.
You may also consider introducing the cat to one dog at a time, so it is not too overwhelming for her. In many cases, I have put the cat in a cat carrier to play it safe for the initial interaction, and have the dog on leash so he can safely smell the cat. After about 5 minutes, or when the dog is calm and "listening" to the cat’s warnings, I have opened the cage and allowed the cat to come out when he wants, while the dog is still on the leash. Eventually you should be able to let the dog off leash, and all is well.
Remember to give your cat the same amount of attention that you normally do and do not change your routine too much because cats are sensitive to changes like this. And to give your cat a safe “out,” I recommend putting up a baby gate in the entry to a room where the cat can have her litter box, food, and water in a dog-free environment.
If you are still nervous about the situation, please be safe and have a professional help you. You can give a call to the behavior department @ 516-785-7822, ext. 314 if needed. We’re happy to help!
Since I had my one year old cat spayed, my three and a half year old female cat has become aggressive: she attacks the one year old all the time. I have tried to separate them, but nothing has changed. She is sweet with the other two cats, but I don’t know what to do. I am afraid we will have to euthanize her. Please help.
There seems to be a dominant struggle going on in your house and it may be due to the number of cats you have. In time, this usually works itself out.
I don't think euthanasia is appropriate because she doesn't get along with your cats. She may just need to be in a home by herself.
Introducing another cat to a home with resident cats can take some time. Anywhere from 2 weeks to a few months (sometimes even a year or two in severe cases) can pass before the situation is fluid and under control. There are a few things you can do to minimize the intensity of the situation from the start of introduction.
1. Make sure that all animals are feeling well. Take them to the vet if they are due for a checkup or if their behavior has changed drastically.
2. All cats should be spayed or neutered; this will help reduce tensions due to hormones and marking behavior.
3. The new resident cat should be placed in a room with his own litter box, food, and water. The door should be closed when there is no supervision. Crack the door slightly when you are home in order to allow the cat to explore if he so desires, but do not force it.
4. All competition for resources should be held to a minimum. For example, each cat should have equal access to food, water, litter box, toys, and human attention if he enjoys that. So, try to keep these resources in different areas of the house and equally accessible for all parties.
5. Make sure you are paying a fair amount of attention (petting, playing, grooming, etc.) everyday so the cats have an outlet.
In most cases, cats will learn to live with each other, although they may never be best friends. On some occasions, cats need to be housed separately.
Diagnosis of what is causing the problem between the two cats can be tricky, so I would recommend the help of a professional trainer if these tips are not helping, or the situation is becoming dire. Never try to separate fighting cats with your hands. Throwing a large blanket over them or making a sharp noise will usually help distract them enough to stop a fight.
My cat Homer is almost two years old. I have had him since July. He bites me constantly - not nips, actually breaking skin. I have tried spray bottles which he runs from and then comes back to attack. I have tried yelling NO at him. I am getting very discouraged with my very first cat ever. He does have a visual disability (I don't believe he is completely blind) but I doubt that plays much of a role. What can I do?
The one thing that makes cats and kittens so adorable to us is also one of the things that can be so troubling. We have to remember that cats are hunters, and some will practice harnessing these skills over time, much to the detriment of our hands and feet.
There are some rules that you can live by with your cat/kitten to curb this behavior, or harness it appropriately:
1. In this case, the cat has a disability which may or may not be causing the problem. Either way, this should be taken into consideration when playing with her. Like any behavior problem, a Vet consultation is a good idea to rule out any medical problems that may be adding to the issue.
When an animal has a disability such as an eyesight problem, the way you approach her is going to effect her reaction. Use her other, keener senses to guide the interaction. In this case, since the cat can't see well, I would recommend calling the cat’s name and introducing myself slowly, as opposed to coming up on him suddenly and surprising him; many animals feel vulnerable when one of their senses is missing.
2. Of course, this kind of play is natural and important for survival. Make sure your cat has the appropriate play outlet, such as scratching posts, with or without catnip. Play with a kitty teaser to simulate real-life prey drive behavior. A good template to follow is 15 minutes, 3 times a day of playing/handling, such as: Play with Kitty teaser, allow cat to cool down and "kill" prey, and once cat has calmed down, end with light petting and grooming.
3. NEVER LET YOUR CAT PLAY WITH YOUR HANDS! They are not an appropriate toy.
4. Think about where you are petting your cat. Contrary to some beliefs, most cats do not enjoy belly rubs or hard, dog-like petting (although most dogs tell me they do not like that either). Three areas where cats typically like to be pet are the temporal gland (beneath the ear), the perioral gland (on the chin), or the caudal gland (the base of the tail). I mentioned the gland names to emphasize that where we pet our cat, and where they seem to enjoy it, has much to do with their natural instinct to mark.
5. Some cats will do this out of anxiety and dominant behavior, and although these things can help, it is probably a good idea to call a professional to help you. Bideawee has feline behavior specialists that can assist you if needed.
There are many questions about inappropriate elimination in canines (going potty where you don't want your dog to go). This problem can arise for many reasons, so here is what to consider when housebreaking you dog:
1. If your dog/puppy is having difficulty housebreaking, it is always best to get him/her to a veterinarian first to rule out any medical problems that will cause this behavior.
2. Here are the basics on how to housebreak your puppy/dog.
-Good rule of thumb: How many months old your pup is +1 is how many hours you can expect him to hold it in a small confinement are (crate). 2 month old puppy = 3 hours of reliability in the crate. Sometimes they can hold it longer at night, but it's best not to push it too long.
-When taking you dog/pup outside to go potty, you need to make it clear to your dog that it's bathroom first then play. For example, when you know your dog has to go (first thing in the AM), go outside with him (on leash in the beginning) to a place where you would prefer that he go. Stand there quietly for 5-7 minutes. If your dog does not go in that time, bring your dog back to his confinement area (crate) for about 20 minutes and try again. If he does go, then give lavish praise (verbal and special treat), and then proceed to give more reward by playing with your dog (inside or outside) or give a walk so you show him that now your day can begin once you've eliminated.
-When you cannot supervise your dog, especially if he is having elimimation issues, he needs to be in the crate. Of course, you need to be reasonable and not over-crate your dog (this will depend on your dog, his age, and what you do with him when you are home). I will usually suggest this until the dog has shown close to 100% reliabilty when you are home, and then slowly allow unsupervised time outside the crate (maybe first in one room) when you are not home (5 minutes..10 minutes..15 minutes..and so on).
-In some cases, wee-wee pads or newspaper may have to be used, but this should be more of a last case resort, such as when your pup is too young to be left alone in a small confinement area too long, the dog has barrier issues with the crate, separation anxiety, etc.
3. Please read (scroll down) info about what to do when the dog has an accident, how to clean the accident, etc..
4. Inappropriate elimination can also pop up as a symptom to another underlying behavior. Things such as marking (neutering can help this), anxiety, etc. can cause these problems to occur. It is important to diagnose any underlying behavior problems. A professional trainer/beahviorist can help you diagnose any problems. Of course when dealing with issues, especially when it comes to inappropriate elimination, a positive trainer is highly recommended. Feel free to call Bideawee and talk to one of our behavior specialists who can set you up with an appointment
My dog does not like it when I cut his nails.
This problem usually develops very young in the dog's life, even if they do not make it obvious. Dogs are not born with the ability to enjoy getting the nails trimmed (why would they: scissors, near paw, making clipping sounds = scary).
Avoiding this problem starts when the dog is very young, typically puppy age (from the second day they are born). At this age, the puppy should be getting his paws touched, paying special attention to the nails; you would even go as far as showing the puppy the nail trimmer and rewarding with treats every time he sees the trimmer, it makes a sound, or a nail is trimmed. For more information on puppy training, please see our puppy kindergarten classes.
The association (classical conditioning) will soon become positive every time the dog sees a nail clipper.
Of course, if a traumatic experience happens to the young pup while getting his nails clipped at an early age, the pup may develop a phobia, which would lead to some immediate counter conditioning.
In the case of an adult dog having this type of problem, immediate counter-conditioning can help. Counter-conditioning and desensitization at its most basic level is simply forming a positive relationship with the whole event. The positive conditioning must start right before the dog "freaks out, or runs away." So in this case, this dog is running away when she sees the nail clipper. So, to start on this project, you would simply show the clipper, and reward with food (without trimming the nails). There are a variety of ways to do this. For example, I would consider putting the clippers down next to the dog while she eats. Doing things like this frequently will at least get you to the first step of changing your dog's mind that the clipper is evil (counter-conditioning). Once your dog seems unbothered by the clipper being there, then you move to the next step (picking up clipper and showing to the dog while rewarding with food)....and so on.
*Remember to take your time and go slow. Every positive step can be regressed by going too far to quick and scaring the dog into a negative reaction. So needless to say, patience is of the utmost importance here.
Conditioning programs can vary in difficulty depending on the severity of the reaction, and is difficult because of the amount of time needed to do some programs. A professional trainer/behaviorist (CPDT certified recommended) can help in developing a specific program for you and your dog.
I have a cat that is about 2 years old and he has an issue with going to the bathroom. He doesn't like his litter box. I have tried changing the litter and even gave him a second litter box upon my current Vet's suggestions. He ruled out a UTI and he goes both 1 & 2 outside of the box. I clean it every day and it still doesn't make a difference and he doesn't have a favorite place out side of the box either-it's just wherever he feels like it. He is fixed and there have been no new changes in his life that he should be rebelling against. I'm really at my wit's end and I can't keep searching the entire house everyday and I can't have my one and a half year old daughter finding it either. Any suggestions before I have to find a new home for him?
This month we received many questions about cat litter box problems. This is a difficult problem to deal with, and there are many causes: medical conditions, anxiety, change in environment/routine, marking, to name a few.
There is a set of things that one would want to do to alleviate the situation. These are:
- Go to your vet and rule out any medical problems in your cat.
- Spaying or neutering your cat can reduce marking behavior.
- The number of boxes in your home should equal as many cats as you have + 1. (So for two cats, you should have three boxes)
- The boxes should be placed in different, quiet places, where your cat can feel safe and non-vulnerable.
- When trying different litters, keep the same litter you have and change a different box to different litter. You need to keep consistency and try different litters slowly.
- The combination of different litters include:
- clumping, scented litter
- non-clumping, scented litter
- clumping, unscented litter
- non-clumping, unscented litter
- Make sure you scoop boxes daily and empty the box completely every 5 days, wash box extensively with soap and hot water.
- After you have tried all of the above, you may need to confine your cat in a small area to "coerce" him and retrain him.
*Please remember that punishment is not effective when dealing with this situation and can make the problem worse by adding stress to your cat.
*Carrying your cat to the box is also not effective.
These suggestions will help deal with litter box aversion and should be the first things that are done to address the situation. However, you may need to have your cat diagnosed for an anxiety problem that may be causing this. If you feel that your cat is having an anxiety problem, it may be time to call a behaviorist to help you.
Don't hesitate to call Bideawee to discuss and set up an appointment with one of our behavior experts to help you deal with this difficult problem.
I have had my dog for 12 years and when she was a puppy I was training her to go to the bathroom on wee-wee pads and then outside. She was trained and always ate her food. I also use to take her for rides in the car with me, then something tragic happened to her at 6 months and I had to help her go to the bathroom on wee-wee pads in the house because she couldn't walk by herself and she wasn't eating her food anymore. When she recovered, she became very picky with her food. I still have a problem with her eating, and she is 12 years old. I can't take her in the car when I run errands because I don't like to leave her in the car. When she had her tragedy I will admit that I babied her - I don't know if I would call it spoiling her but I gave her everything and stayed with her all night and all day. Since this tragedy happened to her, when my husband and I go out and leave her home alone, not always, but most of the time, she will urinate in the house and occasionally poop on the rug.
Is she going to the bathroom in the house because of her tragedy, because I don't take her in the car as much as I used to, or is she spoiled and being spiteful?
You have a problem that many people face...an older companion, going through those all so common changes of elder life, with an added bonus of tragedy in the very important parts of life (at puppyhood).
Here is what I suggest:
1. When dealing with any problems of urination/defecation of an animal, it is best to rule out any possible medical problems that may be causing this. Go to your vet and let her know of the problems you are facing and she will be able to rule out any medical cause.
2. Unlike human beings, animals are incapable of giving/experiencing "spite". Animals do these things for a reason, usually as a result of anxiety or confusion, and this is how your animal may be expressing it.
3. If your animal is deemed healthy by a vet, she may be going through separation anxiety, which can by exacerbated when they hit old age. Very often we see our friends acting more "closely" with us, not having that confidence they had experienced when they were in their prime. They understandably feel more vulnerable, as they feel that they cannot "protect" themselves or add anything meaningful to the "pack" that they are involved in. Remember: Animals are not meant to be "meaningless" to the "pack" they are involved in. When this happens in the wild, they usually cease to exist, so they never encounter these problems
4. What needs to be done here is to empower your dog with independence... Over indulge your dog not when she is depending on you too closely, but to reinforce her when she is calm/confident in her surroundings... This means not overly reinforcing her "goodbyes " when you leave, and not over reinforcing her "hellos" when you come home. These are the starters in addressing the possibility of "separation anxiety" in canines.
5. Many "anxiety" behaviors can be curtailed by ruling out boredom and giving them things to do such as a stuffed Kongs or bones to keep them occupied while you are not there.
6. If you perceive that your animal may be suffering from separation anxiety, you need to get in touch with professional behaviorist/trainer who deals in positive reinforcement training.
7. In rare cases when your animal is experiencing "cognitive dysfunction", it is important to get you veterinarian involved, as they might be able to help you with behavior medication in conjunction with behavior training and modification.
How many walks and how much exercise does my dog need?
On average, dogs need three walks per day for 15 minutes at a time in the neighborhood (so they can see and experience different things) and 30 minutes of aerobic exercise per day (running, ball playing, high physical activity).
How often do I need to obedience train my dog or puppy?
Intense training should be done about three times a day for 10 or 15 minutes each session. Most important is to be consistent in using commands and immediate rewards throughout the day when interacting with your pups.
Can I teach an old dog new tricks?
Yes, but the older they are, the longer it will take for them to absorb something new.
How do I keep my cat from scratching up my furniture?
Keep their nails short, give plenty of scratching posts, and play with your cat daily. (Ask your vet to show you how to safely clip your cat's nails). Usually two to three play sessions per day for 15 minutes is sufficient. Be sure to use kitty teasers and not your hands to play.
How do I trim my cat's nails?
It is important to begin trimming your cat's nails at an early age. The younger your cat is, the more comfortable and cooperative she will be when you trim her nails. You should rest your cat comfortably on your lap or other surface. Hold her paw in your hand and gently press the toe pad to extend the claw. You should notice two distinct areas/colors of the nail; the thick area of the claw closest to the toe (the quick) is pink while the sharp area farthest from the paw is white. Trim the white area of the claw. DO NOT cut the pink area as this is tissue and may cause pain and bleeding. If your cat becomes anxious or upset, you can always stop and resume the task at a later time. You may want to consult a veterinarian for a demonstration/explanation.
Should I declaw my cat?
Not if you follow these simple steps! Bideawee agrees with the Declawing (Onychectomy) Position Statement by the American Animal Hospital Association. The statement that follows can be found on www.aahanet.org: Declawing of domestic cats should be considered only after attempts have been made to prevent the cat from using its claws destructively or when clawing presents a significant health risk for people within the household.
Bideawee believes that having a scratching post is an important step in training a cat to avoid destructive scratching behavior. Several companies manufacture scratching posts and other products that appeal to cats. Some companies and organizations have developed similar plans for do-it-yourself construction.
There are also other products that can help:
Sticky Paws: Sticky Paws' products provide cost effective solutions to cat scratching behavior and inappropriate elimination problems.
Soft Paws: Developed by a veterinarian, Soft Paws are vinyl nail caps that are applied to your cat's claws. This amazing product effectively covers the claws so no damage occurs when your cat scratches.
How long can my puppy reliably hold elimination?
You can reliably expect your puppy to keep from having accidents while being confined for as many hours as they are in months + 1. For example an 8 week (2 month) puppy can hold it for 3 hours (sometimes longer while sleeping). A crate (or cage) that is big enough for the puppy to stand up, turn around and lay down only is the most popular method of choice for short term confinement.
When can I expect my puppy to eliminate?
You can expect your pup to eliminate immediately after waking up, during or immediately after play, and after eating. It is important to know these times and create a situation that will set up success for you dog.
What do I do if my dog has an accident and I'm watching him/her?
"Accidents" that your pup or adult dog has is usually a result of lack of supervision... However, since no human being is perfect, "accidents" do happen. If you are at the scene of the crime you need to act quickly with your dog and say something like "outside" in a desperate but not negative tone. You do not want your dog to think going to the bathroom around you is bad, you just want to show them where to do it. Once your dog is outside, praise moderately while going, and have a "party" when it is completely done. Something like a high quality liver treat should be used specifically for positive reinforcement of housebreaking.
What if my dog has an accident and I find it later, do I show it to him/her?
If the dog has eliminated in an inappropriate spot, you need to first think about your routine/situation. "Accidents" are usually a result of lack of human supervision. Recommended are cleaning solutions that have enzymes specifically designed to break down pet smell (Nature's Miracle, or white vinegar solution). Clean the area (not while the dog is watching) and evaluate why it happened. If accidents continue to happen and you notice soft stool or dark urine, consult your vet as there may be a medical reason behind it.
My puppy keeps mouthing me. Is it normal?
Believe it or not, it is important that puppies use their mouth while they are young (prior to 6 months of age). By being "mouthy" your puppy is figuring out how to use their mouth appropriately. Mouthy behavior should become less frequent and severe over time, and by the time the pup is 6 months it should be under control. Remember, your puppy is also teething during this time, which is a small cause of mouthiness. If you feel however your pup is acting aggressively, you should consult a positive trainer to help you get over this difficult and important period. Time is of the essence.
When can I start training my puppy?
Your puppy should already be getting trained! By the time your dog is 8 weeks of age, they can learn a variety of commands and where to appropriately eliminate. So obviously, start right away (8weeks +). Make sure when you are doing intense training to keep it short (5-10 minutes), and repeat multiple times a day (3-5 times). Puppy training is not just "sit", "down", "stay", etc. It should involve handling, socializing, and basic manners. Enrolling your pup in a positively based puppy class is one of the most important things you can do. Don't Wait!
My dog is afraid of his "shadow". What do I do?
In most cases it is normal that your adult or young canine may be afraid of some things. It is important to understand that your reaction plays into it. If you see your dog is acting "scared" when faced with the unknown, you are much better off acting like nothing is wrong. Your dog will act from your confidence with the same. Coddling the dog can send mixed messages to him, and can lead to insecurity. For severe or chronic fear, seek a professional, positive trainer.
What are appropriate toys for my cat/kitten?
NOT YOUR HANDS! One of the most common occurrences in cats is the rough play with human hands. This is usually a result of the kitten or cat learning at an early age that hands are toys. Hands are not toys, they should be used for petting, holding and all things gentle. However, cats are natural predators and do need appropriate outlets. Some of the favorites are kitty teasers, scratching posts, and a simple crumpled up piece of paper. The important thing is that this kind of play does not involve human hands.
One question is chosen each month to be answered for this column. As always, if your pet is experiencing an emergency or displaying physical symptoms or any out-of-the-ordinary behaviors, please contact your veterinarian immediately.
Bideawee is not responsible for any medical information provided to you by this feature and is not liable for the health or well-being of your animal by virtue of making this feature available to you.
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