Q & A: Ask the Trainer
Mike Rueb, CPDT weighs in on your Training and Behavior questions.
Michael Rueb has his CPDT (Certified Pet Dog Trainer) certification and is the Training & Enrichment Manager at Bideawee. Mike has introduced several new Bideawee programs, open to the public, such as Puppy and Kitty Kindergarten classes and affordable one-on-one training.
Mike's work for resident canines and felines has enhanced the quality of life of the animals here at Bideawee. Under his leadership, Bideawee's Behavior and Training Department has significantly reduced the number of animals returned after being adopted and has brought Bideawee to the innovative forefront in community education and high-quality care for Adoption Center animals.
Q: What to Do When You Have Kittens?
A: Kitten season is approaching, and soon many places like Bideawee will be getting phone calls from people trying to place kittens, whether they were born in their home or found outside. First and foremost, I want this to serve as a reminder to every person who owns a cat-spaying and neutering has never been as important as it is now. Shelters all over New York State are inundated with cats and the population continues to rise despite efforts to reduce it.
Many people ask what to do if they find kittens in their yard or if their own cat has kittens. Here are some tips for taking care of them. Most importantly, make sure you learn from this and get your cat spayed or neutered so this will not happen in the future!
First, try to get an idea of how old the kittens are. Kittens should be with their mothers until they are approximately 7 weeks old. If the kittens are in your home, it is important to begin gently touching and handling them so they will be used to human contact. Kittens learn easily from their earliest experiences. Whatever they are exposed to will likely help them during the rest of their lives. Carefully handling their whole body (head, paws, tail, mouth, etc.) can help prevent future problems with the cat, and the ultimate result is a better chance of being able to find the kitten another loving home when the time is right. If the kittens are outside, then you will have to do the same daily handling and socialization, but where you do this will depend on the situation. If the mother is friendly, then you can try to bring the mom and kittens inside, but make sure to talk to your veterinarian about this before doing so since there may be consequences to your animals if exposed. If the mother is feral or not approachable, then you may have to socialize and handle them outside until the kittens are big enough to be taken inside and worked with indoors. And remember, if you handle the kittens, the mother will not reject them.
Before considering placing the kittens in a shelter, handling and socializing them daily is of utmost importance. The kind of behavioral care a kitten can get in a home greatly outweighs what they will get in any shelter. You will be doing them a great service while they are young that will continue to help them throughout their lives.
Q: Is my dog safe in my backyard?
A: When first looking at this title, I am sure many people are understandably confused and even possibly upset. What could be so bad about having a backyard where a dog can roam, play and search for things? On the surface, there is nothing wrong with yards. They can provide a good deal of space for exercise, working on commands, and playing games but they also can bring many hazards.
Unfortunately, many trainers and people who work in the field of animal care see the same old story-somebody with good intentions adopts a puppy or dog from a local shelter and the dog or pup ends up spending a good deal of time in the yard, especially when the owners are not home. During this time things can go wrong. The dog can do many things that result in negative behavior, such as pee and poop indiscriminately, dig up the family flower garden, escape from the yard, bark at people and other dogs to the point of exhaustion or eat something toxic. While the owner may feel it is better to leave the dog outside with "room to run" as opposed to being "cooped up in the house all day," it really is not the best idea.
Being alone all day long enables the dog to develop and practice unwanted behaviors. Even worse, a dog can be medically compromised or vulnerable to aggression-type behaviors. Once these behaviors start happening, the dog often loses the ability to be socially sound in our world (in the house), and can also lose the ability to be part of the family. I really believe that if all dogs got together, they would say the same thing; "I do not understand what I am supposed to do out here all day. There are some things to smell and do, but it gets boring everyday, so I will figure it out." This "figuring it out" is what can lead to all these unwanted behaviors.
Dogs rely on us for direction and we need to give it to them. Backyards can be a lot of fun, but they cannot take the place of 3-4 nice walks per day around the neighborhood, a trip in the car, fun at the beach, or a visit to a friend's house. In other words, they need variety!
Think of the backyard as a bonus. If you have one, that is great. You can use it as a place to do interactive games with your dog, such as play ball and work on coming when called. Remember, there are some truly happy dogs that live in places that do not have yards and the bottom line is that the time you have to spend with your dog daily is much more important than the "space" you may or may not have.
Q: Gifts for Christmas?
A: During this time of year, it is common to see many people out shopping at pet stores, or looking for a gift for a family member or loved one at an animal shelter. There is no doubt that your dog or cat would love a new ball for Christmas or some special treats but be careful before giving into the cuteness of a puppy or kitten and adopting one for a family member or friend.
We know that there is a spike in adoptions during the holidays unfortunately resulting in a spike of returned animals a few months later. It's very sad to see the results of the realization that that the cute furry face that was a gift actually needs to be fed, walked, cared for medically and be fully integrated into your life. There are many cases where a family is ready to bring a new pet into their lives during the holidays but it is always smart to make certain that a family or individual is ready for the long-term commitment that welcoming a pet into your life brings.
One of the single most important things to ensure a successful pet adoption is having the person or family meet the prospective new family member before adoption. It is here that the matchmaking process takes place and it's a place where Bideawee Matchmakers excel. Bideawee is fortunate that the organization has a wealth of experienced and educated Matchmakers that help prospective adopters find the best pet to fit into their lifestyle. Make sure that when you begin the search for your furry forever friend that wherever you go has adoption associates that have in-depth knowledge about the dog or cat can you're considering adopting so that you make the right choice for your life.
Sometimes what gets lost in the impulse of buying or adopting a pet for a friend or family member is the long term commitment (10-18 years) that a dog or cat can bring us, as well as responsibilities such as vet bills, training, supplies, etc. Plus most people would not appreciate somebody else choosing their human partner or friend, it's no different with choosing a pet. It's a highly personal choice that is best made by the pet parent. So, for the holidays this year, even though the thought of giving someone the love of a new pet is enticing think about getting something different to show your love. Giving a home to a pet in need is a nice gesture for the holidays, but remember, dogs and cats need loving homes all year long.
Q: My dog is not always on his best behavior when holiday guests arrive. How can I keep him from getting into trouble?
A: It's that time of year again, the holidays are just around the corner. This is usually the time of year that our animals, typically our canine friends, get into the most trouble. With many holiday decorations, food, trees, and visits by friends and family, there is always a higher risk of something going wrong. The most common things that happen are of the annoyance variety, and not considered severe by most. Some of these things are; jumping on guests, stealing food, and some minor destructive behavior. Unfortunately, there are also a good deal of aggressive incidences, and visits to the veterinarian due to the pet eating something toxic.
It’s important to know that every animal and every case is different. How to treat a behavioral problem depends on a number of factors, such as the particular animal in question, the actual problem, and the underlying factors such as the family situation and people involved. However, one thing that you can do that seems to cross all boundaries is teaching the "leave it" command. If you take a moment to think about your own pet, you will probably realize that there are many times during the day that you do not want your dog to steal something off the table, jump on a person, chase the cat, etc. The "leave it" command is a great way to teach your dog to back away from something and ultimately look at you to avoid the object or stimulation that is causing the trouble.
One of the ways to teach this command is by using food. Simply take the food in your hand, make your dog "sit", and slowly introduce the food to your dog. If, and when, your dog tries to take the food out of your hand, say "leave it" and gently push the dog's nose back with the food in hand (typically you can close the food in your fist to make this easy). When your dog does not try to take the food out of your hand for a couple of seconds at first, say "take it", and give the food. It is important that your hand moves to the dog's mouth to give the food, as opposed to the dog reaching with his mouth to take the food. Remember, the idea is to teach your dog not to take or grab things. What you will see happen fairly quickly is the dog's ability to exercise some impulse control, and wait for you to give it to them. <br />
It is also important to maintain eye contact with your dog when you are teaching the “leave it” command. Eventually, try to wait for your dog to give you eye contact before saying "take it" and giving your dog the food. Not only will your dog back away from anything when you say "take it", they will also learn to look at you. This is very helpful as it teaches the dog to orient their body towards you when saying "leave it". It also has other applications such as when you are trying to stop your dog from eating garbage on a walk, or when spotting a squirrel.
So, in summary the "leave it" command is usually taught by;
- Placing food or treat in your hand (make a fist so the dog can not get it)
- Say "leave it"
- Gently push the dog's mouth back if he tries to take the food and repeat the words "leave it"
- When your dog does not go forward with his mouth for a couple of seconds say "take it"
- Give the food
- Repeat.
Eventually wait for the dog to look at you before giving the food so you can teach the eye contact. You can also practice with things other than food when your dog understands what "leave it" means, as well as making him leave it longer and in different body positions such as "down".
In many cases a positive style trainer can help you with this command and many others. Start practicing before the holidays are in full swing, you will be glad you did!
Q: At what age does a puppy become a dog?
A: Do you know that when talking about puppies, most trainers and behaviorists consider a puppy to be a dog that is just born to about 6 months of age? This may be a bit confusing because many of us have been told over the years that a dog is a puppy until about 1 year of age. This discrepancy can be misleading and even dangerous to the dog's fundamental behavior and temperament. Why would a seemingly small discrepancy have such a large impact on how we train our dogs?
There is pretty consistent agreement in the behavior field about what time in a dog's life is the most crucial. Most would agree that it is from the time the dog is born to 6 months of age and it is one of the reasons for trainers and behaviorists to highlight this time period as the "puppy" age. From countless research and first hand experience, this is likely the truth.
After the first 6 months of a dog's life, the dog's understanding of what is good and bad does not stop, but it does seem to slow down quite bit. It is one of the reasons why many consider the time between 6 months and about 2 years the adolescent period of the dog's life. An adolescent dog does very well with obedience training ("sit", "down", "stay", etc.), but a pup under 6 months does better when it comes to getting accustomed to unfamiliar and frightening stimuli like sounds and strangers because they are more adaptable.
It is important to make sure that when your puppy is young you supply them with plenty of body handling exercises, and socialize them with many different people and pups when it is safe and appropriate. It is normal for a puppy to jump, mouth, and be active. This is one of the reasons why when I get a call from a client and they tell me about how their puppy is mouthing and acting "crazy", I usually don't get alarmed. Of course, I will get them involved in a puppy training class so we can work through these normal issues on the way to becoming a well behaved adult dog.
I become more concerned when a client tells me that their puppy is very calm, not acting social, and not mouthing. In most instances, this is not normal puppy behavior and can lead to fear and possibly aggression down the road. When you see that type of behavior in your puppy you must act immediately.
Although not all dogs are alike, you should not wait until your dog is older to socialize him. In most cases it will be much more difficult to socialize him and have him be an active participant in your life. In some of the worst cases if a dog doesn't receive the stimulation and socialization that it needs when it's a puppy, the dog remains an introvert.
Do yourself and your puppy a favor and enroll your pup in an appropriate puppy class, as this can lead to many good learning experiences for your puppy and help him on his way to becoming a well-rounded family dog.
Q:My pet will cry and try to hide before a storm. Is this normal behavior?
A:
Just like with people, fears in a dog or cat can seem unreasonable when you are not experiencing it yourself. For example, when there is a storm, typically involving heavy wind, rain, lightning and thunder, some of our pets act out in a way that seems overly sensitive to us. Most of us (humans) understand that as long as we are in the home, away from the windows, the chances of an incident happening during a thunderstorm are very minimal. The problem is many of our pets have a hard time processing the situation, and may do things such as pace, whine, cry, try to hide, etc.
After Hurricane Irene, I was presented with many phone calls and e-mails from people discussing their animal's strange behaviors leading up to and during the storm. Many of us also saw some interesting footage or experienced first hand accounts of our animals running out of a room or acting strange moments before (in some cases a reported 10 seconds), the earthquake in Virginia.
Although it is hard to explain what the animals are experiencing, we do know that they are more sensitive than we are to stimulus, and their survival instincts will kick in when needed (flight response). These instincts are beneficial to the animal to some degree. The problem happens when the instincts are not appropriate in the environment that we live in. So, the question is; what can we do to help our animals get through these events when they happen?
In most cases, it is important to make sure your dog or cat has access to the areas that they may want to hide in to ride out the storm. For some dogs or cats, this could be under a bed, in their crate or den, a room that is quiet, etc. Some people have had success with covering their dog's crate with a blanket (make sure he has access to air), shutting the blinds, and even keeping a light on in the home so the flash of the lightning is not so dramatic. Turning on a radio may also help muffle the sound of the thunder, wind or driving rain. Providing your dog with a stuffed Kong with many goodies may also help distract him in the midst of a storm. It is important that you behave normally with your dog or cat to not add fear to the situation. Remember, our animals are very aware of how we act, and will react accordingly if they think that something is not right. It is important to make sure that your animal is safe and comfortable, but if you act too abnormal with them when an event is happening it can sometimes send the wrong message and make things worse. Your stability will help their emotional stability.
Can behavior modification work when addressing storm phobia? Well, it is hard to mimic the actual occurrence of a storm, but some have tried getting the dog slowly used to the sounds of thunder, rain, and wind by the playing these sounds from a CD. This is the basic idea of slowly conditioning and desensitizing the dog or cat to the typical sounds of a storm. When considering this type of program for your pet, there needs to be a good deal of delicacy and thought involved. Consulting a trainer or a behaviorist is recommended.
There are some cases when the animal can be a legitimate danger to himself when there is a bad storm. When this is a realistic occurrence some people have tried to medicate their pet to help ease the suffering during storms. Thankfully, this is not needed or recommended in most cases, but should you believe that your pet is a danger to itself it is very important to consult with your veterinarian before making the determination to medicate your pet.
Q: When it's too hot to go outside, how can we keep our dogs cool and entertained?
A:
This time of year presents challenges for some of our dogs. The hot weather can be especially difficult for Brachycephalic breeds (dogs with "pushed in" faces) such as the Pekingese, English Bulldog, and Shih Tzu. Dogs with "pushed in" faces are more prone to respiratory problems and heatstroke when faced with hot temperatures.
Here are a few tips on how to keep your dog cool and entertained inside and out during these hot days:
1. When outside, keep your dog cool by having fun in water. A pool can be a great time for some dogs. Supervised play in the pool can be a great way to exercise your dog without putting too much stress on their bodies. Some dogs will even fetch in the water. If you have never tried this before, make sure you go slow and allow your dog to get used to the idea of swimming; you do not want to force them into it and scare them. If you don't have access to a pool, then a sprinkler or a hose can also be useful.
2. Freeze the toys! A frozen Kong stuffed with chicken broth or another tasty liquid can be a delight for your dog in the hot weather and is sure to keep them busy. Others have had success keeping their dogs busy with frozen bagels, busy balls, buster cubes, and chicken broth ice cubes. Remember, the idea here is too keep them busy and cool at the same time.
3. Inside games can be very useful on hot (and rainy) days. One of my favorites is "find it". Hide your dog's favorite toys all over the house (as he is in another room), and then release him to "find it". This is a great way to have fun with your dog and teach him to identify different items as well as developing a good "come" command (get the dog to bring the item back to you). Also a game of hide and seek can go a long way as well. Just have your dog do a sit/stay in one part of the house, hide in a good spot (a closet for example) and then release him from his stay to find where you are. Again, you are teaching your dog the stay command and the recall in a way that is fun and less stressful then being in the hot sun.
4. Teach a new command. Teaching a new command should always be done in a calm, quiet environment. Take the opportunity to teach your dog something that you know he can learn indoors, this way when the weather gets better you can start using it outside the home where it can be a little more difficult.
5. Indoor agility! This may depend on the space available and the size of your dog, but there are many things you have throughout the house that can be used as jumps, tunnels and weaves. Whether you use a hula hoop for the dog to jump through, a chair to jump over or furniture to weave around, make use of your everyday items to have fun and teach the dog how to follow your commands and navigate an environment. Simple lure/reward techniques can be used to facilitate basic agility maneuvers. Just be careful you don't knock something over.
A little creativity can go a long way for your dog. You'll be surprised how fun and easy it can be to come up with ways to keep your dog satisfied during a difficult heat wave. Indoors does not have to be boring!
Q: My new kitten has some troublesome behaviors. How can I stop this?
A:This time of year, kittens are everywhere.
From approximately March to June, adoption centers see a rise in kittens that come into the shelter. For many people, it is an exciting time to adopt a kitten and add a family member into the home. This is also when I get a rise in phone calls and e-mails in regards to troubling kitten behavior, particularly mouthing, scratching, sometimes biting. Although as a society we tend to understand and accept this as a normal function of young puppy behavior, many people seem to get more nervous about this type of behavior in young kittens. Like puppies, mouthy behavior can be a very normal function of the kitten's development, as they learn to explore their environment, deal with their instinctual play drive, and understand how to use their mouth properly and with restraint. When we teach our new family member how to compromise with us in the home, there are some big responsibilities to make sure we are sending the right message. This is especially true while the cat is still young and in its formidable developmental months of life. During this time there are some things we can do to make sure the mouthy behavior becomes controlled and much less prevalent in the future.
First and perhaps most importantly, do not use your hands as a play toy! Even though it may not hurt so much to have a kitten mouth or lightly scratch your hand, this probably will hurt a good deal more when the cat is older. It also can scare your guests, and is an even more dangerous behavior when dealing with children and cats. Be sure to use a toy to play with your cat appropriately, such as a kitty teaser, a ball, shoelace, etc. Cats and kittens need to exercise their normal prey drive, but it is in our best interest to help them understand that hands are for petting and grooming, not for play.
Second, get your kitten used to touch and handling by periodically picking him up, gently touching all parts of the body while softly talking and praising the kitten. You can also help make a good impression by giving the kitten some food or small amount of treats while you are handling him.
Also make sure that when you are planning on having a cuddling session with your kitten, that you do not do this while the kitten is still overexcited from play. Every feline is slightly different in this regard, but allowing them to "cool" off before attempting to touch, handle or groom the cat is a good idea. Remember, the prey drive in an animal is a cycle of behavior; target-chase-catch-kill. So when you are playing with that kitty teaser, you need to properly stop play by allowing your cat to "kill" the toy by stopping play, laying the toy down and letting them bite it, then allowing proper "cool down" time before engaging in other much softer activities such as petting and grooming.
If you think your cat or kitten is engaging in play that is dangerous and potentially harmful, you may want to consult with a Bideawee behaviorist or trainer.
Q: How do I properly leash my dog?
A:Something as seemingly simple as leashing up your dog can become a complicated and arduous task. I have witnessed many owners struggling with their dogs when putting on the leash, whether in their house, on the street or at the dog park. What some dog owners seem to forget is that putting the leash on can be scary for some dogs, and be unpleasant for many. For owners who have difficulty leashing their dogs, here are a few tips that can greatly improve the process, making the start of your walk or ending of a play session much more pleasant:
First, it may be a good idea to practice the act of putting the leash on and off a few times a day. For example, some dogs get scared when their owner puts his hands near their neck or the head. This action needs to be positively associated to the dog, so the dog does not do things such as back off, duck, or growl out of fear when the person gets the collar. Gently touching the dogs neck and collar a few times a day, rewarding with food as you do it, can keep the dog from developing hands shy behavior, and get him to actually like when people go towards the neck. When you see that your dog is having no hesitation when you touch the collar, add the leash to the exercise. Simply put, you would practice in order; touching or getting collar, clipping the leash on collar, giving a treat and verbal praise, taking the leash off and repeating the exercise. Some owners find it helpful to use a word that precedes the act of putting the leash on such as "leash on". This can develop into a useful command.
Secondly, be specific when putting the leash on. Most owners do not want their dogs to be running away, jumping up, or getting too excited when the leash comes into play. The struggle of calming a dog down when trying to clip the leash on can be quite frustrating. Ask your dog to do something before putting the leash on such as "sit". The "sit" command usually comes with its own positive feeling to the dog, as this is the number one command that most people teach their dog. It will be something that is fun, easy for your dog to do and will put him in a good logical position that will keep him from jumping. This will facilitate an easy clipping of the leash transaction.
Always try to follow the leashing of your dog with something that is pleasant. At first, when you do this it is a natural tendency for your dog to see the leash as a positive thing (means going outside, which is fun to most dogs). However, be mindful when you are leashing your dog at the dog park, or when you are in an open area such as the beach. When we leash our dogs in the "fun" zones, the leash can mean an end to fun, which for our dogs is all too easy to figure out. So when leashing in these areas, try to repeat the process randomly a few times, without it resulting in the removal of the fun and excitement. In other words, you do not want your dog to think that every time he or she is leashed in an outside area that it is time to go home (game over).
Regardless of what kind of leash or collar you use (buckle, martingale, head halter, etc.), these tips can help make leashing your dog an easy and pleasant experience.
Q: I am looking to adopt a dog, what kind of breed should I get?
A:The age old question of "what dog breed is good to adopt?" is still one that I get quite frequently.
Dogs were initially bred for a function that was extremely helpful to the human lifestyle. Important tasks like hunting, herding sheep, protecting the home, and chasing away the rats that could carry disease were all important at one time in human history. Although these and many other tasks that dogs were bred for are still very important for some people, the vast majority of dogs, especially in the U.S., are used for companionship. This has far-reaching consequences when selecting your dog. Hundreds of years of selective breeding have caused many of these traits in purebred dogs to be true. For example, the retriever will usually retrieve with a little bit of training, and the border collie will herd with very little coaxing. Indeed, genetics are strong.
There are many reasons why any particular dog forms certain behavior characteristics, this can be particularly true in mix bred animals commonly found in shelters. Although controversial, most trainers, behaviorists and veterinarians will agree that genetics and environment play a role in the outcome of a dog's temperament and tendencies.
So, after all of this, what should one consider when adopting a dog?
First, you should take into consideration what kind of (breed) of dog you are getting. However, most of the dogs adopted in shelters are many different breeds mixed together. Since the development of DNA testing for dog breeds, we have seen many dogs with incredible mixtures and varieties, sometimes even 10 or more breeds in a single dog.
It is my opinion that environmental learning is very crucial to determining the behavior of a dog and although there isn't any foolproof way to ensure the dog's past there are some steps you can take to understand your dog from the beginning. For example, make sure when you go to adopt that you ask many questions about the situation the dog came from and what the foster or shelter has been doing to enrich the dogs under their care. It is very important to understand the magnitude of learning that is going on in the first 6 months of a puppy's life. So, if you are going to adopt a puppy, understand that you as the owner have a big say on what the puppy will be like when he or she is an adult.
Finally, if you are adopting a pup or adult dog, information about the dog's behavior seen at the shelter or foster should take priority. Nothing is 100% in behavior, but a good shelter or rescue should know a great deal about the dog's strengths and weaknesses. Knowing this can help you on your path to navigating the difficult world that you live in with your dog.
Bottom line, there are things we should think about when considering certain breeds, but it is also immensely important to raise your puppy in a social, loving environment to give him the best chance at being a socially and behaviorally sound animal in our world.
Q Why do some dogs hate the process of clipping their nails?
A:It is hard to say, but either way this can be a very difficult thing to do if your dog is fearful of the event. Although it is always easiest to get them used to this when they are puppies, it is a good idea to continue working on this even when the dog is older. Never take it for granted that just because your dog has allowed you to do this without problems in the past that you'll be able to clip your dogs nails stress free forever. Dogs like with humans can become less tolerant as they get older.
If you have a dog who is very scared of having it's nails clipped, start by just showing him the clippers, giving a treat, and putting the clipper away a few times a day. Once you see that your dog no longer reacts to seeing the clippers with scared body language you can take the next step in the training process which is touching your dog's nails to the clipper without clipping while you give your dog a treat. As with any training regimen this process can also take a few weeks to a few months depending on the dog. Eventually you can get to the point where you can clip one nail, give treat, and stop. Always remember to take your time when working on this, training, regardless of level takes patience and commitment. Hopefully, you will have your dog for 10 + years, so there is no need to clip all the nails at one time, you can do one a day (or every other day) so your dogs become well acquainted with the process.
When doing difficult things with our animals (grooming, going to the vet) it is always assumed that it will be a challenging and stressful undertaking, even if It doesn't have to be! Just practice the specific behaviors a few times a day and you can start taking the pressure off your animal and yourself. Your pet and your vet will be thankful you did.
Have you ever had that fleeting moment of panic where you think "Help! My dog is running out the door and I can't get him back."
If you live in the suburbs rest assured that it's not only you that experience this common and often very dangerous situation. There are many reasons why dogs do this. From greeting the neighbors dog or the little boy down the street to searching for mates (get your dog neutered!), or just for pure fun and excitement can be some of the reasons why this happens. This behavior can at the very least be a nuisance for you and your community, with a possibility of a devastating outcome (dog gets hit by car or lost). So, it is in the owner's and the dog's best interest to work on this behavior. Here is a list of steps to get you started:
1. Make sure your doors/gates are properly secured. There is no substitute for safety!
2. Get your dog spayed or neutered. It is not responsible to have a dog running all over the neighborhood to begin with. Being an intact male or female can definitely exacerbate the problem.
3. Work on your come command. It is always easiest to do this while your dog is young and impressionable. You need to practice this daily! In many cases, I advise people to put their dog on a long leash (30 ft.), go outside, and practice the "come" command while using very high level food reward for doing this. Always save the good stuff for when you are working on something of difficulty and importance like coming when called while outside.
4. Practice having your dog "wait" at least 5 feet from the door before going outside. Having the dog understand that he/she should never go out the door unless told on command is very crucial. A good release command is "let's go", letting your dog know it is ok to go out the door. Many people have had success teaching their dog to wait on a spot away from the door, such as the stairs or a dog bed. Having a central location for the dog to go to can be very helpful.
5. Finally, think about why your dog may be running out in the first place. Is he getting enough exercise and socialization? Try to make life fun, and your dog will likely have a desire to stick around the person who is providing the fun. You!
Q: Is pulling on a lead a common problem in dogs?
A:Outside of problem barking, this issue is one of the most common behaviors that cause owners to seek trainers and behavioral consultations.
The first thing I ask a client is "Does your dog come to you when called?" The reason for this question is to make clear the connection between the dog having a reliable recall (come command) and walking nicely on lead. The problem can usually be traced back to the fact that the dog always wants to go away from the owners, not towards them. So the first step in having your dog respond well to being on a lead is to teach your dog to come to you when called.
There are a few tools that can be useful when walking a dog that pulls hard. These tools are not to be confused with actually treating the problem of pulling; rather they are to help mitigate the pure strength of the dog (control). Some good tools include an Easy Walk body harness, a martingale collar, or a head halter, of course some tools may be more appropriate than others. These tools tend to be easy to use once the dog is desensitized and has adapted to the feeling that the collar or harness gives.
Finally, to get started in teaching your dog how to walk well on leash, bring him outside or in a room on lead, and practice changing your directions frequently, trying not to pull on the lead. When the dog looks up at you as to say "Where are you going?" reward the dog with treats and praise, and continue the walk. Make sure you positively reinforce when the dog is looking at you and walking nicely and continue to change directions to keep the walk interesting.
Q: Is it anxiety, or just boredom?
A: I have received numerous accounts and questions from owners about their dog's propensity for destructive behavior, excessive barking, unruly behavior, digging, etc.
One of the responses that I get from many people is "I believe my dog's digging is from anxiety, why else would he do this?" All of the things that dogs do are normal in one way or another. Dogs tear things up, they dig, bark, run, exert energy, etc. When these things start to happen during times we do not want them to or in an excessive manner, it can become bothersome to us, or even dangerous for the dog.
So what is a dog owner supposed to do?
To start, expectations have to be reasonable. If you own or plan on owning a dog, you have to understand what their needs are. This will tend to vary with age and breed. For example, if you have a 2 year old border collie, it is almost a guarantee that the dog will need much more than average mental and physical exercise, as opposed to a 10 year old large breed who is showing signs of slowing down. Bottom line, you need to know what you are dealing with.
Always rule out boredom before considering anxiety as being the cause of the behavioral problems. A balanced daily routine is important to keep a dog mentally and physically satisfied. Here are a couple of things that you can do to keep your dog stimulated:
1. Walks
Take your dog out for walks! Even if you are fortunate to have a yard, they need to be walked at least 3 times a day. The yard can become a haven for boredom, as the dog is used to the same area daily, and it does not usually present new and different experiences. The yard can also become an arena for practicing inappropriate behaviors such as digging, barking, and destruction. A practiced behavior, good or bad, is hard to break.
2. Toy Options
Give your dog options when it comes to toys. Having your dog eat out of a food puzzle is a lot more interesting than the same old boring food bowl. Some usual food puzzles that are widely used are Kongs, Busy Balls, and Buster Cubes. The ball, rope, and other usual toys are fine, but usually these need to be used during a play session with your dog,
3. Play games
Games can also keep your dog out of trouble and help with boredom. Find it, fetch, tug (done appropriately), as well as the food puzzles are a few games that can be fun for you and the dog.
4. Be creative
Have snow on the ground? Teach your dog to pull a sled (if appropriate). Take the dog to an obedience class. Go to an agility class, or do some safe, in home agility; going under tables, chairs, jumping over something in the yard, etc. There is so much you can do if you put your mind to it.
Of course, if you truly feel your dog has separation anxiety or something to that effect, a consultation with a behaviorist/trainer may be helpful. In the far majority of cases, however, the dog is just bored and not challenged enough.
Q:What are some simple techniques one can do to eliminate feline house soiling?
A:Feline house soiling comprises of approximately 25% of the phone calls I receive each month from people who need help with their animal. This behavioral problem can severely compromise the relationship of an owner with their feline companion. There are many reasons that cats will go to the bathroom outside of their litter box. The reasons for this can take up a whole book of explanations and theory, but there are some simple techniques one can do to eliminate the house soiling.
1. Make sure your cat is healthy! Bring him or her to the vet. You always need to rule out a medical problem before embarking on a long journey to find the root cause of the elimination problem.
2. Once your cat receives a clean bill of health, try cleaning the boxes regularly, scooping every day (or when you see that it is dirty), and emptying out the box completely every 5-7 days, cleaning with soap and water and putting fresh new litter into the box.
3. Make sure you have enough boxes for all of the cats in the home. Rule of thumb; As many cats you have in your house is how many boxes you should have + 1. So, if you have 3 cats, then you should have 4 boxes. At the least, try to add another litter box one at a time and see if it helps.
4. If you're not currently using clumping, unscented litter, try some as cat's typically prefer this type of litter.
5. If your boxes are covered, try uncovering them. Cats usually prefer uncovered boxes to covered boxes.
6. Make sure the boxes are in a low traffic, calm area of the home.
7. The boxes need to be away from feeding areas!
If you've tried all of the above suggestion and you are still having problems, a behavioral consultation either by phone or in the home can help. Every cat is so different, so this can sometimes be equal to being a detective trying to solve a crime. Remember, cats are not spiteful! Yelling at them will only make it worse.
Q:Is it ok to play a game of tug with your dog?
A:I get this question quite a bit.
Years ago it was thought that playing a game of tug with your dog can lead to aggression or destructive behavior. The image of the dog pulling, growling and tugging on a rope toy is an image that many people equate to aggression or destructive behavior. Although it is understandable to think or feel this way, playing tug can actually be a great way to have control over your dog's mouth. The important fact to realize here is that ANY game you play needs rules. If there is not a specific set of rules for playing tug, it can lead to inappropriate behavior such as the dog grabbing items out of people's hands unannounced, or pulling on clothing.
For example, if one were to teach tug the appropriate way, here is a basic way to go about it:
1. Teach you dog to "sit" before starting any game.
2. While your dog is sitting, put the toy near his mouth and say "leave it". It is important that the dog leave the toy (rope), for at least 3-5 seconds before allowing him to "take it". Make sure that the dog takes the item gently.
3. While the item is in the dog's mouth, say "pull", and gently tug on the item with your dog.
4. After tugging for a few seconds, say "give" and exchange a treat for the toy.
5. Repeat this process.
What you are doing by following this protocol is starting to form actual commands. Depending on the dog, this may take a few days or a few weeks.
Having this game on command will help keep it fun and safe.
If you are ever concerned that your dog may have actual aggression, professional guidance is recommended.
Q:Can dogs and cats get along?
A:Believe it or not, they can.
There have been many success stories of a newly adopted cat or dog getting along peacefully with the resident animal. These are a few things to consider when adopting and introducing a new animal to the resident dog or cat:
1. Be safe! It is best to keep the animals separate when you are not supervising, especially in the beginning.
2. Make sure both new and resident animals have access to their resources without fear of the other blocking or competing for it. For example, make sure that the cat has access to the box without fear of the dog's interference, and the dog has access to his food without worrying about the cat.
3. Have a room for the new animal set aside. Whether it's a room that will have the cat's litter box, food and water; or a room that will hold the dog's crate, food and water; it is important for the new animal to have a spot that they can feel safe and become familiar with in a short period of time.
4. When having the dog and cat interact, make sure the dog is on lead. In some cases it is best to allow them to sniff each other under a door so you can gauge the reaction of both animals, or even have the cat in a carrier and the dog on lead at first so they are both protected. Typically after a few interactions in this manner (and things seemingly going ok), you can allow some more actual interactions with the cat outside the carrier, but keep the dog on lead a few more times just to be sure.
5. It is best to do short interactions at first (5 minutes) with both animals, and then increase the amount of interactions and the duration of each one slowly over a matter of weeks. The amount and duration of increases will depend on each individual situation.
6. It is best to have the dog go through basic obedience exercises when around the cat so you can obtain some reliability of behavior and you can teach the dog to behave with a little more grace and sensitivity around the cat. Typically things like "sit"- "down" - "stay" are good commands to start with. A "leave it" command can be very useful as well. Using higher level (tastier) food reward for calm behavior around the cat is also advised. The dog and the cat will appreciate it!
7. Sometimes it is best to have the guidance of a professional, especially if one of your animals is showing threatening behavior during any of the interactions. Knowing the behavioral history of the animal being adopted can be helpful as well.
I have had many questions about what the right method is to train a dog to walk well on a lead. Although every case can vary depending on the dog and their ability to focus with environmental distractions, there are 3 basic rules that an owner can follow to start the dog on a road to good manners on lead:
1. STOP when the dog is pulling you
Following this basic rule is easy to do. lf the lead is tight (the dog is pulling), simply stop movement by keeping your body still and your arms in towards your body. When the dog comes back to you slightly or sits, say "yes, lets go" and continue walking. With these actions you are basically teaching the dog "If you are near me and the leash is loose, we get to continue our walk".
2. CHANGE DIRECTIONS frequently
Changing directions frequently will help teach the dog to look up at you. It is almost as if you want the dog to think "I do not know where you are going, so I'll keep my eye on you". When the dog gives you eye contact, reward it. You do not have to drag the dog when you change directions or pull hard. Once the dog is looking at you more consistently, you can walk further without having to change your direction.
3. CHANGE SPEEDS
By walking at three different paces, such as a "slow", "moderate" and "fast" speed, you can essentially keep the dog "on their toes" and reward him for walking well by running (many dogs like to run), or reward with praise and a treat when you slow down and they slow with you.
Doing these three things in tandem can really help the process of loose lead walking. Remember to use your environment to help you as well. For example, if you have the kind of dog who likes sniffing, do not allow him to go a tree to sniff when he is pulling. Use the three techniques to get him to follow your lead, and then ultimately reward him by allowing him to sniff the tree while not pulling ("go sniff").
In some cases, tools such as a body harness or a halti "gentle leader" can help with excessive pullers. A good positive training class is also recommended so you can have guidance from a professional as well.
There have been many questions this month in regards to dogs that may not get along with other dogs.
This can sometimes be a complicated problem. In most cases, if an owner is unsure about the true intentions of their dog with another, I advise them to seek professional help. In many situations, what people think of as "aggressive" can be really a matter of reactivity and overstimulation, without any aggressive intent. When introducing your dog to another, there are some basic things that a person can do to provide a better chance of a nice meeting.
1. Try to have your dog meet another dog in a neutral territory, such as out for a walk. Give yourself plenty of space between you and the other dog, reward your dog for calm behavior with food and praise, and allow your dog to approach while he or she is quiet.
2. If your dog starts to become reactive (growling, barking, lunging), this does not necessarily make him aggressive. However, it is a good idea either way to immediately turn in the other direction, increase your space between you and the other dog, and wait for calm behavior to proceed.
3. Don't be in a rush! Take your time; let your dog become comfortable with the situation. In some cases, it is a good idea to bring your dog to a park where your dog can see other dogs from afar, which will enable your dog to get used to the situation slowly.
4. If you have a puppy with this behavior (under 6 months), get him to a puppy kindergarten class as soon as possible!
5. If you are having your dog interact with another dog on lead, be careful to not allow the leashes to get tangled. It is understandable that you would want to have your dog on lead; however this can sometimes put them at higher risk of fighting due to the fact that they can perceive the leash as a hindrance to their flight instinct. Try not to keep the leash tight unless you absolutely need to, and avoid getting them tangled.
6. Try to get your dog to respond to his or her normal obedience commands such as "sit" and "down". Having the dog run through commands that are familiar to your dog can sometimes help break the intensity.
7. Do not have any food or toys around to avoid fighting over items while you are having the dogs interact.
8. While the dogs are actually playing, it can be normal for them to jump in each other, growl, and chase. If you are unsure about what is normal and not normal, go to a dog park without your dog to observe. This is a great way to become educated about dog play patterns.
Keep these basic principles in mind when having your dog or pup interact with other dogs. Again, in many cases it is advised to seek professional help.
Q: Can canine companions become over-stimulated?
A: I have had many questions about our canine companions becoming over stimulated, hyper, destructive, etc. this month. With the weather becoming nice, it is as if dogs understand that it is time to break out of the winter blues and enjoy the great outdoors. One of the more debateable and talked about treatments for these behaviors is exercise. On one hand, many people feel that a tired dog is a good dog, and they commit to a regiment of long, frequent walks and play at the dog parks daily. Others feel that they can accomplish the amount of exercise their dog needs in their house and yard. The answer: It's a matter of balance and knowing what your dog's needs truly are.
Exercise is a great way to burn off excess energy in your dog. Running, playing at the dog park, a game of chase, can be a good way for our dog (and us) to get the blood flowing and the muscles working. Most would agree that a dog needs a minimum of 3-4 walks per day for 15-20 minutes and 30 minutes of aerobic (running) exercise. This is just a starting point. Some need more than this, others (some very large breeds for example), get tired quicker. There are some important things to consider when deciding on the right exercise routine for your dog.
1. Make sure your dog is getting the minimum requirements.
2. Once you (and your trainer) decide on a correct exercise routine make sure you can stick with it: Life can be very confusing to the dog if one day there are a lot of walks , runs and play, and the next day there is very little. Every person has days where they can do a little more or less, but try not to have too many drastic changes.
3. Don't forget mental exercise! Walks and runs will not help treat behavior problems alone. If this were the case, there would be less unacceptable behavior by dogs in general. Think about life rewards such as doing obedience commands, sniffing, playing a game, sitting on a bench, going on a car ride etc. Not only will your dog achieve some mental relaxation from this, but you can specifically teach your dog a command that makes life easier for you (such as "leave it" for a dog who has destructive issues).
So, think about your dog as having two sets of needs, mental and physical, and ask yourself: Am I achieving this on a daily basis?
Q: I have an 8 week old Shih Tzu female pup that has a terrible nipping problem. How do I stop this behavior before it gets out of control?
A: Spring is the start of puppy season and with this comes new and exciting additions to our families.
Puppies are not only cute, they come with a ton of responsibility and behaviors that are not immediately easy to deal with in our daily lives. From the time the pup is born to the point of adolescence (approx. 6 months of age), there is an incredible amount of learning required that is important for shaping the rest of their lives. One of the most consistent questions that I get is about mouthy and nippy behavior in a puppy. One must remember that "mouthy" behavior in a puppy from 2-6 months of age is normal and natural for development of "bite inhibition" (understanding how their mouth works). As such, the owner needs to be careful dealing with mouthy behavior so as not to be too harsh, but rather clear in helping the puppy learn what is appropriate use of the mouth. Some main points to consider when dealing with mouthy behavior in your pup:
1. Your puppy is teething until 5-6 months of age, so some of the mouthy behavior can be attributed to this.
2. It is important that the nippy behavior decreases in frequency and severity from the time the pup is brought home, until eventually occurring very little by the time the pup is approximately 6 months of age.
3. Remember, your puppy is using his mouth to explore the world at large; he is not necessarily doing this to "dominate" you and "show you who's the boss." Reacting by flipping the dog over and holding them down on their back is unnecessary and, in some cases, can damage the puppy's confidence and well being.
4. Do not reinforce your pup's mouthy behavior. The moment your dog puts his teeth on your skin, you should freeze your motions and stop play immediately. When the puppy stops, you can commence play. In some cases when an individual freezes during mouthy behavior, the pup will bite slightly harder. When this happens, the person can let out a high pitched "ouch," and wait about 5-10 seconds before continuing the petting and interaction once the puppy is calm and not mouthing.
5. Appropriate chew toys such as Kongs and Nylabones need to be given to the pup daily as a chewing outlet.
6. Pups around 3 months of age should be enrolled in a positive puppy class so they can learn how to play appropriately with other dogs and people.
7. When starting any kind of play session with your dog, it is a good idea to give commands, such as "sit" or "down." By doing this, the pup learns that play follows an order, and there are rules that need to be followed (rules of engagement).
8. Start and stop play frequently so you have control! Think of play as a command that should happen when you ask for it, not as a random occurrence.
9. If you think your pup may be tired, stop play and allow the pup to rest.
If you are experiencing problems with your pup, seeking advice and guidance from an experienced positive trainer are highly recommended. Remember, behaviors are easier to change when the dog is young!
Q: It is March, kitten season is quickly approaching, and many people have had questions about their cats, old and young such as; "Why does my cat nip me when I pet him?", or "Why does my cat get upset when I pick him up?"
A: Often we think about what we should be doing with our puppies when they are young, such as socialization, puppy classes, obedience, etc. Although cats have a different role in our society, they are also considered companions, just like dogs.
So whether you already have a cat, or are looking to adopt a kitten from Bideawee, most of us agree that it is nice to be able to pick up, hold, cuddle and pet your cat. From the time a kitten is born, their understanding of life is forming very quickly, and it is time to condition the cat to handling, touching and petting while they are still young and impressionable.
Simply touching the kittens paws, mouth, and body gently a many times a day for short periods of time (a few minutes), can really help avoid future problems. Getting the kitten used to being picked up, brushed, being around strangers and groomed is fairly easy to do, however trying to get a cat to do this when they are older can be difficult. So, do this while they are young!
The window of opportunity to change your cat's mind on how he or she feels about being cuddled, petted, picked up, etc. is small. Most say that it is hard to change cat behavior after week 12 of their life. This is true in many cases, and although getting an older cat comfortable with this is possible, it typically can take more time and can be dangerous depending on your animal. The best thing you can do when working with an older cat is to take your time and try not to get ahead of yourself. Many people want to go from not being able to pet the cat much, to picking them up. As many of us know, you can't rush a cat. Instead of trying to do it all in one shot, try to take it step by step, such as getting 3-4 good strokes of petting for a few days...then 5-6 a few days after that...to slightly lifting the cat off the ground...to eventually being able to pick up an and hold the cat for an extended amount of time. In some of my difficult cases, it has taken a few years to accomplish this, but it is possible to make progress with a cat who dislikes being handled. Go slow and be safe.
If you are experiencing difficulty with your cat or kitten, getting help from a professional is advised.
Q: We have a sweetheart, female Golden who is now 5. When my two children leave for school, she goes up to their rooms and gets stuffed animals and my son's baseball caps and carries them downstairs to lay by her bed. Or, she'll pick up shoes in our closets or those in the hall when we are away during the day or at night, and brings them to her bed. She never chews anything, but just sets up a little fort of our stuff around her big, fluffy pillow in the TV room.
What do you think she's trying to tell us?
A: Your dog sounds great! Your scent on the belongings more than likely makes her feel good and content. Typically, this is nothing to worry about except in the cases where a dog chews up and ingests objects, resulting in costly trips to the vet. Dogs like the familiar smell of the objects they carry around. Some dogs, like Goldens, do like to chew. So, depending on the dog's age and desire to chew clothing items, you can either: a) keep the dog in a location where she cannot take things when you are not around (crate); or b) limit the dog's access to those belongings that she likes. In some cases, the taking of objects and "things" could be a sign of anxiety but that does not seem to be the attitude of your pet.
It is always advisable to give dogs highly-motivational toys, such as stuffed Kongs. The act of chewing releases chemicals in their brain and makes them feel better. Regular exercise and proper chew toys can also help alleviate some of this behavior, especially if it is triggered by boredom.
Around this time of year, I receive numerous inquiries from dog owners about destructive in-house behavior, like chewing and knocking things over. The correlation between a dog acting up and the winter months is simple. The weather is cold and life in the household slows down after the holidays, so the environment becomes a bit boring for them. This winter has been unusually cold, so humans and their dogs have not been able to enjoy much time in the outdoors (yes, I know you Husky people would disagree).
So, here are some ideas for you and your dog during the "dog days of winter."
Toys and activities can make life more bearable during this in-door time of year.
These suggestions can help keep life interesting for you and your dog during this seasonal time of year.
Q: My dog is 2 years old and still nips at my clothes and my hands. It doesn't hurt, but can be very annoying when we are walking. He will also sometimes jump up on someone on the street.
A: Typically, when a dog is being pushy and acting out, whether by jumping or using his mouth excessively, he is over excited and demonstrating a desire for attention.
First, make sure the behavior is not aggression, such as biting. If you think it might be, then you should seek help from a professional trainer. Then, think about what you can do to start making your dog understand that his actions are not acceptable. By ignoring the inappropriate behavior completely, yet awarding desirable behavior, then you are half way there.
Keep in mind the needs of your dog. Exercise, regular walks, car rides and dog parks can help overall behavior as it keeps them active. Another important factor is to make your dog "work" for his resources (food, toys, bones, treats, etc.) Most dogs are bred for a certain job. When they cannot do this job, they will create other things to keep them occupied, which can impact the owner's lifestyle. Keep your dog active and create other things for your dog to do during the day.
This month, there have been several questions regarding dog behavior. As stated in the past, things often are not what they seem in how dogs behave. Too often, one assumes that when a dog barks or growls at another dog, it is "aggressive," which can be misleading. From the opposite perspective, owners can have dogs that appear quiet and relaxed and then a bite incident occurs. We ask ourselves, "why does my dog do that?"
Dogs have a language that they communicate using body movement, vocalization and behavior when in proximity with another dog. Dogs learn to communicate properly with other dogs (and people) when they are young, from birth to 6 months old. Learning continues throughout their life, but their communication cues are shared at an early age. If not properly taught with the right tools and guidance in their young life, problems can ensue through communication of conflicting signals to another animal.
This early training process is why puppy classes are so important. If the owner is not sure what their dog is trying to communicate to another dog, professional help from a positive trainer is recommended. The main point to remember is that time is of the essence as they learn and grow. A dog owner should not assume that their pet is "good or bad" due to their reactive behavior to other dogs, whether leashed or not.
Socialize dogs when they are young.
Q: How do I stop my 6 month old pup chewing
on the grass and digging holes on the lawn.
The lawn area is the area where he goes to the bathroom can he get
sick from laying down and digging on the lawn.
A:I received your e-mail from Dr. Brennen in regards to your dog's destructive behavior in the yard.
It is very normal for puppies of this young age to explore their environment. They should not, however, be allowed unsupervised access to a yard in an effort to prevent this common occurrence from happening. Puppies should also not be permitted to roam your entire home as this can lead to destructive and even dangerous behavior indoors. A designated confinement area for a period of time where your pup can play and rest unsupervised, if used appropriately, is recommended. Motivational toys, such as a Kong, can help keep him happy and out of trouble, as well. Such toys and distractions will also make the confinement area a positive place for him to spend time.
Basic obedience classes may be a good idea for you.
Q: My dog is nine years old and for the past week he's been acting like he is scared of me. I have no idea why. I can't seem to think of anything that I have done. I took him to the vet and everything was fine with him. The only time he will come out of my son's bedroom is if someone else is here or he needs to go outside. He will also come out of the room if I tell him "walk." Please give me any info if you have any ideas!
A: When things start to become different with our dogs as they age, it can mean many different things. In your case, the dog is nine years old and recently started acting scared. The first thing to do, which you had done already, is to make sure there is no underlying medical issues. Once you have ruled that out, you need to try to identify the underlying cause of fear in your dog.
Many times, we think the dog is directly emitting a fearful response to someone, when it is really something that they couple the person or object with. There may have been a recent event that scared your dog that he relates to you. Things such as loud noises, thunderstorms, and fireworks are often the culprits (we have had a difficult summer with thunderstorms). Either way, in your case when you say "walk," the dog seems to respond, which means he probably enjoys walks very much.
Try not to do too much here. Loosen up the environment by giving some pleasant things to your dog such as a stuffed Kong or a toy that is special. If your dog has a fearful response towards you, do not try to "coddle" him, this can make it worse and confuse the dog. You need to try and give your dog an impression things are ok by acting calm, and not giving off nervous body language. Once the dog starts to build confidence with you, then you can be a little more engaging.
Q: A frequent hot question of conversation when an owner has a new puppy or a dog who likes to get into trouble and chew is, "What should I do with my dog when leaving them alone?"
A:With more people than ever having to work away from home during the day, our dogs are left alone for longer periods of time. Although this is not entirely unusual, many dogs have difficulty being left alone, and will destroy certain household items. It is important to understand that your dog is not being "spiteful". What makes them such great companions (their sociability) is often their downfall. It is important to know that dogs are often labeled with the title "separation anxiety" when they are just bored.
First, make sure your dog is in a secure and dog-proof area in the home where he can be comfortable. Leave him something that he can chew on for a while, that is actually fun. Here is a list of some of the common items that can be left with your dog when you have to leave: Kong (stuffed), Nylabone, Galileo bone, Busy Ball, Buster Cube, and other hard rubber Kong products. Also, make sure to exercise your dog before leaving the house. A nice 15-minute walk and a 15-minute run can help. Some should consider using a dog walker to break up the day for your dog.
When using the special toys for when you leave the house, make sure to use them primarily when you are not there. Pick up most of the toys when you are home so the dog will be excited to play with them when you leave. This, along with an obedience and exercise regiment, will help keep your dog out of trouble.
If you think your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, contact a positive reinforcement behaviorist/trainer.
Q: What is appropriate puppy mouthy behavior?
A: From the time owners normally acquire their puppy at around 8 weeks of age, it is normal and common for there to be mouthy behavior, even the kind that hurts. It is important to understand that this is normal and should decrease in severity and frequency up until 6 months of age, where it should be under control.
There are some things that you can do to tech the puppy how to use his mouth appropriately.
1. Don't reinforce the play when the teeth are touching human skin.
As soon as the puppy touches your skin with his teeth, play should stop immediately. Just freeze your hands and body until the pup retracts his mouth, then continue to play. If the pup bites down hard, make an "ouch" sound as well as freezing your body movements
2. Teach your pup what to be mouthing with.
A stuffed Kong or hard rubber toy is an appropriate tool for mouthy behavior. Just try to give it before the pup is mouthy, not as a response to.
3. Hand feed regular meals to reinforce gentle behavior around hands.
4. Go to positive puppy classes while you dog is young!
5. If the behavior is getting more severe, it is a good idea to consult a positive trainer.
Q: I just adopted a one-year-old Rottweiler that I love. He was an outside dog and I want him to be indoors. He is a smart dog but he marks his territory everywhere. I walk him; but what do I need to do
when I have him in the house so he doesn't relieve himself on everything? The first couple of days I walked him through the house with the leash and at night I put him in a large crate. I really want him to be able to walk around in the house without me worrying that he is going to hike his leg. What do I do?
A: The first thing I need to ask: is he neutered? Neutering can help minimize the occurrence of marking. If he was just recently neutered (within the last two weeks) it may take some time for the hormones to dissipate. Crate training is a great way to housebreak a dog, so I would continue to do this. Do not worry about crating him in the beginning. As long as you are not using the crate excessively, and you are walking, exercising, and socializing him regularly, you are doing him a favor by teaching him where to go to the bathroom. Make sure to give him a special reward immediately after eliminating outside (such as a liver treat), to help reinforce the behavior. Keep the crate as a positive place to be, give him a stuffed Kong toy or something else that is motivational and indestructible when you have to keep him in his confinement space. Over time, you may be able to give him more free access when you are not home.
Q: I recently got an eight-month-old Pug month old pug from a reputable breeder. The breeder told me the puppy has been socialized with other dogs and people since she was a baby. However, I've had her for about two weeks now and she is still very anxious and is fearful of other people besides me. When I'm alone with her she is great or if I'm walking her outside on a leash she is also confident. However, when people approach her she becomes very fearful. When I leave my apartment she usually hides in a corner. I know that she may still be adjusting to her new home but I'm worried that this behavioral issue will continue unless I address it as soon as possible. What tips do you have for correcting this anxious behavior?
A: It is widely believed that the most important time in a dog's life is from birth to 6 months of age. This is where all the interactions the dog has with his environment is crucial. Socialization (with people, places and things) and bite inhibition are learned during this time.
Even with all that said, though, learning does not end there. The dog needs to continue to socialize to keep the learned behavior consistent. Environment also plays a critical role in socialization, so even though a dog may have been socialized heavily in one environment, it may take time for those same behaviors to exist in another environment. So here are some things you may want to do with your dog to keep social behavior.
These are some of the things you want to do. However, in some cases, if the dog is very nervous or scared, help from a positive trainer could prove to be very helpful.
Q: I have a one year old male yorkiepoo who is house trained on a wee wee pad as well as outdoors. He is now suddenly pooping and peeing anywhere he wants. What should I do? Please help!
A: What do you do when your dog starts to have accidents in the home? If you have a dog that was/is usually housebroken, and all of a sudden is having accidents, this can be an alarming and difficult thing to deal with.
The first and most important thing to do is to rule out any medical conditions. Go to your vet and give full disclosure as to what the animal's bathroom habits are. Hopefully, everything will be ok, and you can focus on the behavior reasons for the inappropriate urination and defecation.
Next steps are...
Last, if you need further assistance, call a positive trainer/behaviorist.
LEASH WALKING TO KEEP YOUR DOG FROM WALKING YOU
It's time to take your dog out for a walk, but it is difficult to walk a dog who is pulling on leash. Leash pulling can make a walk dangerous, or at the least not very fun. So when you have a new puppy or even an adult dog who does not have great leash manners, here are some of the things you can do:
Doing these three things in tandem will help your dog become better while on leash. Help from a professional is also recommended for hands - on training.
A martingale collar (limited slip collar), is a great alternative to a buckle collar for dogs who pull. For heavy pullers, a head halter is a great, humane tool.
Q: How do I handle a dog that guards his toys and food?
A: Dealing with resource guarding (a dog who guards things such as food or toys) can be a difficult and tricky situation. The first thing, however, is
PREVENTION!
- 1. During the puppy stage, it is important to develop a dialogue with your dog, having him understand that when a human takes things from him, it is ok (and sometimes even pleasant).
- 2. Without being completely annoying, touch your pup as he eats, when he has a toy, chewing a bone, etc.
- 3. Do "exchanges." As your pup is eating or chewing something, trade him for something that has higher value, and then give him the original object back. This will give him the association that when a person comes near him, something good (or at least not bad) is likely to happen, making the situation less likely to become confrontational.
- 4. If you think your dog indeed has resource guarding, it is important to get the help from a positive behaviorist/trainer. True resource guarding behavior, if not dealt with properly, can become a long-term and dangerous situation.
Q: We had two dogs and one passed away. Ever since then, the other dog has been dragging around a stuffed animal everywhere he goes. Why would he be doing this?
A: Losing a Pet can be difficult for the owner and the other animals that are in the home. Animals are companions to each other as well as to us. As with humans, death is a mysterious and quite misunderstood event that is controversial and personal to every individual. There has been some research in the effects of losing a member of the family to the other pets in the house. In my experience, every situation is different, but there are a few things to think about when dealing with a loss:
- 1. It is okay for your animal to be a little depressed. We are, too.
- 2. Try not to change your routine too much with the remaining animals. The change of losing a buddy is difficult enough. Keeping other things consistent seems to be the best way to go.
- 3. Make sure you are dealing with your loss. The other animals in the home are still, as they always have done, looking for direction from you.
- 4. Bideawee does offer Pet Bereavement counseling. Contact the Volunteer and Outreach department for details.
- 5. Many people want to replace the loss of the pet with another for themselves and the remaining pet. This can work sometimes; but remember that the pet you have lost has individual behaviors that cannot be duplicated, thus the interactions and friendships will be different. Our pets, like us, are all individuals.
- 6. Some anxiety behaviors associated with the remaining pets can include: Whining, crying, destructive behavior, confusion, loss of appetite, etc. As with any condition, if you are concerned about your animals change in behavior, consultation with a veterinarian should be considered.
Q: I have been meaning to contact you since we saw you back in June. I wanted to let you know that [our dog] Mikey has
come a long way since you saw him.
He is much better with my husband. He no longer tries to bite him, and has started to play with other people instead of just me. I am now working on
him interacting with other dogs. We took him with us to visit my brother who has two Shelties and he was pretty good with the dogs. He does not have
a problem with the female: They hung out together. The male, who has as many fears as Mikey, ran away from him most of the day. By the time we went
home they were okay with each other. I know this is a one day visit; but I hope by him meeting other dogs on his walks, he will stop jumping on them.
Do you think he would be okay with another dog in the house? We were thinking about getting a second dog to keep him company when we go to work each
day. He is so spoiled (my fault)! I don't know how he would be and I don't want him to hurt another dog. Some of my friends have more than one dog
and they say there is an adjustment period but both dogs eventually bond.
Is this a good idea or not?
A: So you are thinking of adding another dog into your home?
Adding another canine companion animal into your home can be an enjoyable and exciting event. There are certain things to remember when selecting the
dog that is right for you, and your current residents.
- Make sure you are happy with the new dog's temperament and behavior first. It is a good idea to meet the new dog without the other(s) being with you first. Remember, you are going to be the one taking care of the new dog.
- Have the current residents meet the new dog before bringing him home. This is best done on neutral territory, in a large open area. If you have more than one resident dog, try to have them meet one at a time. Having the support of knowledgeable staff to help you in the meeting is recommended.
- The behavior in the home will be different than what it was during the first meeting on neutral territory. Some dog's can be territorial. When a new dog enters what they consider "their" home, it might be a little tricky. So, when first bringing home the new resident, allow them to take a walk together outside, or allow play in the yard if you have access. This will relieve some initial tensions that will occur once they are in the home together.
- Make sure you do not promote competition for resources. Each dog should have an ability to eat and drink away from the other dog, especially in the beginning. This will also apply to sleeping areas.
- Keep them separate when you are not home. For at least the first two weeks, make sure the dogs are not together unsupervised. Until you know how their relationship will develop, you will be taking unnecessary risks. A confinement area, such as a secure room or crate is usually a way to go depending on the dog's history.
- Promote proper manners and obedience, especially when the dog's are together. Regular obedience exercises will help you gain the necessary tools to control the dog's energy level when they are together. For example, many interrupted play exercises with the dogs together is highly recommended. This way, when you have company over, you will be able to stop the impending excitement that will happen.
- If you are unsure of the dog's behavior, consult a positive trainer to help you with the transition.
My husband and I just adopted an 8 month old Carolina dog. Prior to living with us she lived with a family with three children and her sister from the same litter. When the family had to move overseas, the dogs went up for adoption and were separated. She has only been living with my husband and me for three weeks. She is very sweet and gentle, but she is very aloof and not playful at all - mostly she lies around and sleeps. She usually resists taking a walk and won't play in the yard. We think she may be kind of depressed on top of being freaked out by her new world. The only time we see her very excited and happy is when our friends bring their dogs over for play dates. But at this time we cannot get another dog. We know it takes time for dogs to adjust to new surroundings but we are afraid she'll never have any fun or be happy with us. How long is a typical adjustment time period for adopted dogs? Do dogs usually recover when they are separated from siblings? What can we do to encourage her to play with us (we already get down on hands and knees with toys) and liven up a little?
Typically, when dogs go from home to home, as in your case, there is a higher likelihood of certain behaviors arising, and separation or generalized anxiety is one of them.
Remember that dogs form their social groups at an early age. Many times when this social group is broken up, it is difficult for the dog to re-bond to his new social group (you). In some cases it may take two to three months for the dog to become comfortable. Do not rush the process. It is OK to try and build the dog's confidence with play and interaction; but sometimes we go too far. Dogs perceive advancements made by us differently than we intend – so sometimes less is more. By just sitting by the dog, giving a food reward while watching TV can do wonders. Build the dog's confidence slowly.
Try to play with a ball, rope, or bone. Do not worry if the dog does not play right away --just try a little bit every day.
Working on obedience commands with high level food rewards can also help build confidence.
My dog is afraid to go in the pool. She was tramatized as a pup byfalling in a pool. If I try to take her in gently, she runs away andwill not even look at me for the rest of the day. Any ideas as to herswimming. Should I try the beach instead?
Yes. A traumatic experience can cause a long lasting fear of anything, especially when the in the early stages of development (puppyhood).
In your case, it is a pool.First thing you need to do is allow her to approach the pool, without going in, and condition her to at least be comfortable when she is near it (use food, praise, play etc.). Knowing the distance in which your dog can be near the stimulus (pool) without having a negative reaction (shaking, crying, whining, etc.) is important. Once you have established a baseline distance, a slow gradual increase of distance towards the pool can be done. You should only move closer to the stimulus when your dog is showing calm, confident behavior. Eventually when she is fine with this, you can go a step closer in the right direction and eventually in the pool. This can take a while, in many cases months or years if the object causes a high degree of fear in the dog.
In many cases, a professional positive dog trainer can help you through this difficult task.
We adopted Mikey almost 2 years ago and he was the perfect little
dog. He was afraid of everything, would not go for a walk, or stay
by himself. As long as he was with us he was a happy little guy. My
husband was with him the first few months after we adopted him and
they got along fine. Since the end of last year, Mikey tries to bite
my husband's pant leg when ever he goes to leave the room. He also
tries to bite him when he gets into bed at night. The only thing we
can think of to cause this behavior was taking him to a new groomer
and leaving him for a few hours. He usually goes to a mobile groomer
and is out of the house about one hour. What can we do to get him to
stop this? I would appreciate any help you can give us.
Sometimes during a dog's life, behavior can go from what is seemingly a peaceful existence, to strange, unpredictable and sometimes chaotic behaviors. When dealing with aggression, there are certain things to consider:
1. Make sure your dog is healthy. A trip to the vet for a basic health evaluation is important.
2. Occasionally, around 2-4 years of age, when the dog is at or nearing full maturation, they can start to act out or become less tolerant of situations that they "let go" before.
3. Many times people will misdiagnose their dogs as dominant, when they are really just anxious or insecure.
4. Start your dog on a program to build confidence and manners. “A Nothing In Life Is Free” training protocol can be very important for keeping a dog mentally stimulated and teaches boundaries.
5. When dealing with aggression (or threatening behavior), help in diagnosing and treating the behavior by a professional positive trainer or behaviorist is highly recommended.
Bideawee has trainers that can help you.
I adopted a llasa-poo when she was almost 9 months old. We've had her for 6 weeks and we signed up for beginner training classes. She's very smart and doing well except for one thing: she picks up objects when she's outside, such as bones or discarded napkins. When we try to get these away from her, she holds on tight, growls, and might snap. She is good about her food or her toys. We are trying to train her to drop and she will drop her toys if there is something else for her. How do we get her to drop things?
Your question has two parts to the answer. Before teaching your dog a "drop" command, it is best to teach a "leave it" command.
To teach the "leave it" command, your dog must first understand that before she takes anything from you, she has to wait until she hears a command that designates her to take the item ("take it"). So from now on, the dog should understand that she takes nothing until you tell her to. With that being said, you have to remember that it is ok to have a few toys that are designated okay for her to take at will, but most things should be given to her.
Of course, nothing is perfect, and our dogs sometimes can't help themselves, so than we need the "drop" command.
Start off with something that she can have, such as a ball or toy. Make it a game. Throw the ball, and lure her to come back to you. When she does, hold a treat to her nose and say "drop". When she drops the ball for the treat, give her the treat, praise her verbally, and repeat. Eventually the dog will "drop" the ball without the exchange of a treat...and now you have formed a command. Do this with many different items she can have, and this way when she gets something she shouldn't, there will be no fight for the object (you know: running around the living room, screaming your head off…just the kind of game the dog likes to play!)
The training department at Bideawee can help with the finer points of these commands. Contact us at 516-785-7822 ext. 314
My boyfriend and I rescued a 1.5 year old dog from a shelter 4 months ago. When we are in his presence, he is the sweetest thing and very friendly around our family and friends. But we have come to realize that if one of us is not nearby, he becomes a completely different dog. He will bark and growl and will not let anyone near him. What can we do to help him feel safe around family members and friends even when we're not around?
It is a wonderful thing when someone adopts a dog from a shelter, as many times these dogs are in need of a good home and consistency in their lives. Many times, shelter dogs are victims of misunderstanding, and as a result, the prominent beginning of their lives (which is most important for their development) does not start off well. They often go from home to home, stopping in between at different shelters. Once they are fortunate enough to find caring adopters, they are subject to bonding very closely with their social group (you), and have a hard time accepting different people. Your dog has most likely found comfort in you, and is able to let his guard down when he has you as a safety net. When you are not there, he goes back to his default defensive behaviors, acting scared or aggressive, as he knows this will keep the unknown away. Here is what you need to do:
1. Find out what his intentions are. Very often dogs will show threatening behaviors to get out of an unknown or scary situation, as this is the first thing they learn to do, and it works. You may need help from a professional to do this, as it can be tricky to identify in some cases.
2. Build his confidence. You have to help facilitate this. For safety and effectiveness, you need to start associative learning with your dog (classical conditioning). This means simply offering something of high level reward to the dog, when strangers are around, especially when he is acting friendly. You may want to start with someone you know is dog savvy. By simply allowing the person to approach him and offer something like a food reward when he is calm and confident will help start the process of positive thinking in your dog. Your dog may have anxiety, and pushes it away when you are there because he knows you have control of the situation.
3. Allow others to walk your dog and interact. Start with you being around, and increase the distance you are from the the person and your dog as he shows the ability to cope. Obviously, you need to do this with someone who shares positive experiences and feelings about your dog. Gradual increase in distance is important, because in may cases of fear and anxiety when you go to fast it can hurt your progress.
4. The situation is key. There may be a correlation of his fear of people and where he is at the particular time. For example, in some cases dogs can be more defensive and protective in their home environment, as in the case of territorial behavior. He also may be more defensive when you are not there, as he feels he has lost his protection, and has to defend himself.
5. Socialization. Socializing is best done in a puppy. However, you can still help him understand that people and things are inherently good by doing a lot of positive association and conditioning. Remember, it may take a while, as behaviors are hard to change, especially as the dog becomes older.
This is a very common situation in shelter dogs. Understanding what you are dealing with is key. Sometimes it is just insecurity, and other times it can mean more.
It is very important to seek help from a professional positive trainer when you are unsure. Be safe. If you need further help you can feel free to contact the behavior department at Bideawee: 516-785-7822 ext. 314.
I have a nine year-old ragamuffin cat at home. Due to a death in the family, I am taking in two seven year-old wheaten terriers. I am concerned about the cat getting along with the new dogs-can you shed any light on the subject for me?
In most cases a cat will defend herself (and her territory) very easily-and a dog will comply. Do not scold your cat when he hisses or swats at the new dogs; this is important for the dogs to experience so they can learn. I would advise to be more sensitive in a situation like this if the cat has a medical problem that could worsen with stress or if the dogs have a known history of high prey drive behavior. Either way, make sure they are separated when you are not home.
You may also consider introducing the cat to one dog at a time, so it is not too overwhelming for her. In many cases, I have put the cat in a cat carrier to play it safe for the initial interaction, and have the dog on leash so he can safely smell the cat. After about 5 minutes, or when the dog is calm and "listening" to the cat's warnings, I have opened the cage and allowed the cat to come out when he wants, while the dog is still on the leash. Eventually you should be able to let the dog off leash, and all is well.
Remember to give your cat the same amount of attention that you normally do and do not change your routine too much because cats are sensitive to changes like this. And to give your cat a safe "out," I recommend putting up a baby gate in the entry to a room where the cat can have her litter box, food, and water in a dog-free environment.
If you are still nervous about the situation, please be safe and have a professional help you. You can give a call to the behavior department @ 516-785-7822, ext. 314 if needed. We're happy to help!
Since I had my one year old cat spayed, my three and a half year old female cat has become aggressive: she attacks the one year old all the time. I have tried to separate them, but nothing has changed. She is sweet with the other two cats, but I don't know what to do. I am afraid we will have to euthanize her. Please help.
There seems to be a dominant struggle going on in your house and it may be due to the number of cats you have. In time, this usually works itself out.
I don't think euthanasia is appropriate because she doesn't get along with your cats. She may just need to be in a home by herself.
Introducing another cat to a home with resident cats can take some time. Anywhere from 2 weeks to a few months (sometimes even a year or two in severe cases) can pass before the situation is fluid and under control. There are a few things you can do to minimize the intensity of the situation from the start of introduction.
1. Make sure that all animals are feeling well. Take them to the vet if they are due for a checkup or if their behavior has changed drastically.
2. All cats should be spayed or neutered; this will help reduce tensions due to hormones and marking behavior.
3. The new resident cat should be placed in a room with his own litter box, food, and water. The door should be closed when there is no supervision. Crack the door slightly when you are home in order to allow the cat to explore if he so desires, but do not force it.
4. All competition for resources should be held to a minimum. For example, each cat should have equal access to food, water, litter box, toys, and human attention if he enjoys that. So, try to keep these resources in different areas of the house and equally accessible for all parties.
5. Make sure you are paying a fair amount of attention (petting, playing, grooming, etc.) everyday so the cats have an outlet.
In most cases, cats will learn to live with each other, although they may never be best friends. On some occasions, cats need to be housed separately.
Diagnosis of what is causing the problem between the two cats can be tricky, so I would recommend the help of a professional trainer if these tips are not helping, or the situation is becoming dire. Never try to separate fighting cats with your hands. Throwing a large blanket over them or making a sharp noise will usually help distract them enough to stop a fight.
My cat Homer is almost two years old. I have had him since July. He bites me constantly - not nips, actually breaking skin. I have tried spray bottles which he runs from and then comes back to attack. I have tried yelling NO at him. I am getting very discouraged with my very first cat ever. He does have a visual disability (I don't believe he is completely blind) but I doubt that plays much of a role. What can I do?
The one thing that makes cats and kittens so adorable to us is also one of the things that can be so troubling. We have to remember that cats are hunters, and some will practice harnessing these skills over time, much to the detriment of our hands and feet.
There are some rules that you can live by with your cat/kitten to curb this behavior, or harness it appropriately:
1. In this case, the cat has a disability which may or may not be causing the problem. Either way, this should be taken into consideration when playing with her. Like any behavior problem, a Vet consultation is a good idea to rule out any medical problems that may be adding to the issue.
When an animal has a disability such as an eyesight problem, the way you approach her is going to effect her reaction. Use her other, keener senses to guide the interaction. In this case, since the cat can't see well, I would recommend calling the cat's name and introducing myself slowly, as opposed to coming up on him suddenly and surprising him; many animals feel vulnerable when one of their senses is missing.
2. Of course, this kind of play is natural and important for survival. Make sure your cat has the appropriate play outlet, such as scratching posts, with or without catnip. Play with a kitty teaser to simulate real-life prey drive behavior. A good template to follow is 15 minutes, 3 times a day of playing/handling, such as: Play with Kitty teaser, allow cat to cool down and "kill" prey, and once cat has calmed down, end with light petting and grooming.
3. NEVER LET YOUR CAT PLAY WITH YOUR HANDS! They are not an appropriate toy.
4. Think about where you are petting your cat. Contrary to some beliefs, most cats do not enjoy belly rubs or hard, dog-like petting (although most dogs tell me they do not like that either). Three areas where cats typically like to be pet are the temporal gland (beneath the ear), the perioral gland (on the chin), or the caudal gland (the base of the tail). I mentioned the gland names to emphasize that where we pet our cat, and where they seem to enjoy it, has much to do with their natural instinct to mark.
5. Some cats will do this out of anxiety and dominant behavior, and although these things can help, it is probably a good idea to call a professional to help you. Bideawee has feline behavior specialists that can assist you if needed.
There are many questions about inappropriate elimination in canines (going potty where you don't want your dog to go). This problem can arise for many reasons, so here is what to consider when housebreaking you dog:
1. If your dog/puppy is having difficulty housebreaking, it is always best to get him/her to a veterinarian first to rule out any medical problems that will cause this behavior.
2. Here are the basics on how to housebreak your puppy/dog.
-Good rule of thumb: How many months old your pup is +1 is how many hours you can expect him to hold it in a small confinement are (crate). 2 month old puppy = 3 hours of reliability in the crate. Sometimes they can hold it longer at night, but it's best not to push it too long.
-When taking you dog/pup outside to go potty, you need to make it clear to your dog that it's bathroom first then play. For example, when you know your dog has to go (first thing in the AM), go outside with him (on leash in the beginning) to a place where you would prefer that he go. Stand there quietly for 5-7 minutes. If your dog does not go in that time, bring your dog back to his confinement area (crate) for about 20 minutes and try again. If he does go, then give lavish praise (verbal and special treat), and then proceed to give more reward by playing with your dog (inside or outside) or give a walk so you show him that now your day can begin once you've eliminated.
-When you cannot supervise your dog, especially if he is having elimimation issues, he needs to be in the crate. Of course, you need to be reasonable and not over-crate your dog (this will depend on your dog, his age, and what you do with him when you are home). I will usually suggest this until the dog has shown close to 100% reliabilty when you are home, and then slowly allow unsupervised time outside the crate (maybe first in one room) when you are not home (5 minutes..10 minutes..15 minutes..and so on).
-In some cases, wee-wee pads or newspaper may have to be used, but this should be more of a last case resort, such as when your pup is too young to be left alone in a small confinement area too long, the dog has barrier issues with the crate, separation anxiety, etc.
3. Please read (scroll down) info about what to do when the dog has an accident, how to clean the accident, etc..
4. Inappropriate elimination can also pop up as a symptom to another underlying behavior. Things such as marking (neutering can help this), anxiety, etc. can cause these problems to occur. It is important to diagnose any underlying behavior problems. A professional trainer/beahviorist can help you diagnose any problems. Of course when dealing with issues, especially when it comes to inappropriate elimination, a positive trainer is highly recommended. Feel free to call Bideawee and talk to one of our behavior specialists who can set you up with an appointment
My dog does not like it when I cut his nails.
This problem usually develops very young in the dog's life, even if they do not make it obvious. Dogs are not born with the ability to enjoy getting the nails trimmed (why would they: scissors, near paw, making clipping sounds = scary).
Avoiding this problem starts when the dog is very young, typically puppy age (from the second day they are born). At this age, the puppy should be getting his paws touched, paying special attention to the nails; you would even go as far as showing the puppy the nail trimmer and rewarding with treats every time he sees the trimmer, it makes a sound, or a nail is trimmed. For more information on puppy training, please see our puppy kindergarten classes.
The association (classical conditioning) will soon become positive every time the dog sees a nail clipper.
Of course, if a traumatic experience happens to the young pup while getting his nails clipped at an early age, the pup may develop a phobia, which would lead to some immediate counter conditioning.
In the case of an adult dog having this type of problem, immediate counter-conditioning can help. Counter-conditioning and desensitization at its most basic level is simply forming a positive relationship with the whole event. The positive conditioning must start right before the dog "freaks out, or runs away." So in this case, this dog is running away when she sees the nail clipper. So, to start on this project, you would simply show the clipper, and reward with food (without trimming the nails). There are a variety of ways to do this. For example, I would consider putting the clippers down next to the dog while she eats. Doing things like this frequently will at least get you to the first step of changing your dog's mind that the clipper is evil (counter-conditioning). Once your dog seems unbothered by the clipper being there, then you move to the next step (picking up clipper and showing to the dog while rewarding with food)....and so on.
*Remember to take your time and go slow. Every positive step can be regressed by going too far to quick and scaring the dog into a negative reaction. So needless to say, patience is of the utmost importance here.
Conditioning programs can vary in difficulty depending on the severity of the reaction, and is difficult because of the amount of time needed to do some programs. A professional trainer/behaviorist (CPDT certified recommended) can help in developing a specific program for you and your dog.
I have a cat that is about 2 years old and he has an issue with going to the bathroom. He doesn't like his litter box. I have tried changing the litter and even gave him a second litter box upon my current Vet's suggestions. He ruled out a UTI and he goes both 1 & 2 outside of the box. I clean it every day and it still doesn't make a difference and he doesn't have a favorite place out side of the box either-it's just wherever he feels like it. He is fixed and there have been no new changes in his life that he should be rebelling against. I'm really at my wit's end and I can't keep searching the entire house everyday and I can't have my one and a half year old daughter finding it either. Any suggestions before I have to find a new home for him?
This month we received many questions about cat litter box problems. This is a difficult problem to deal with, and there are many causes: medical conditions, anxiety, change in environment/routine, marking, to name a few.
There is a set of things that one would want to do to alleviate the situation. These are:
- Go to your vet and rule out any medical problems in your cat.
- Spaying or neutering your cat can reduce marking behavior.
- The number of boxes in your home should equal as many cats as you have + 1. (So for two cats, you should have three boxes)
- The boxes should be placed in different, quiet places, where your cat can feel safe and non-vulnerable.
- When trying different litters, keep the same litter you have and change a different box to different litter. You need to keep consistency and try different litters slowly.
- The combination of different litters include:
- clumping, scented litter
- non-clumping, scented litter
- clumping, unscented litter
- non-clumping, unscented litter
- Make sure you scoop boxes daily and empty the box completely every 5 days, wash box extensively with soap and hot water.
- After you have tried all of the above, you may need to confine your cat in a small area to "coerce" him and retrain him.
*Please remember that punishment is not effective when dealing with this situation and can make the problem worse by adding stress to your cat.
*Carrying your cat to the box is also not effective.
These suggestions will help deal with litter box aversion and should be the first things that are done to address the situation. However, you may need to have your cat diagnosed for an anxiety problem that may be causing this. If you feel that your cat is having an anxiety problem, it may be time to call a behaviorist to help you.
Don't hesitate to call Bideawee to discuss and set up an appointment with one of our behavior experts to help you deal with this difficult problem.
I have had my dog for 12 years and when she was a puppy I was training her to go to the bathroom on wee-wee pads and then outside. She was trained and always ate her food. I also use to take her for rides in the car with me, then something tragic happened to her at 6 months and I had to help her go to the bathroom on wee-wee pads in the house because she couldn't walk by herself and she wasn't eating her food anymore. When she recovered, she became very picky with her food. I still have a problem with her eating, and she is 12 years old. I can't take her in the car when I run errands because I don't like to leave her in the car. When she had her tragedy I will admit that I babied her - I don't know if I would call it spoiling her but I gave her everything and stayed with her all night and all day. Since this tragedy happened to her, when my husband and I go out and leave her home alone, not always, but most of the time, she will urinate in the house and occasionally poop on the rug.
Is she going to the bathroom in the house because of her tragedy, because I don't take her in the car as much as I used to, or is she spoiled and being spiteful?
You have a problem that many people face...an older companion, going through those all so common changes of elder life, with an added bonus of tragedy in the very important parts of life (at puppyhood).
Here is what I suggest:
1. When dealing with any problems of urination/defecation of an animal, it is best to rule out any possible medical problems that may be causing this. Go to your vet and let her know of the problems you are facing and she will be able to rule out any medical cause.
2. Unlike human beings, animals are incapable of giving/experiencing "spite". Animals do these things for a reason, usually as a result of anxiety or confusion, and this is how your animal may be expressing it.
3. If your animal is deemed healthy by a vet, she may be going through separation anxiety, which can by exacerbated when they hit old age. Very often we see our friends acting more "closely" with us, not having that confidence they had experienced when they were in their prime. They understandably feel more vulnerable, as they feel that they cannot "protect" themselves or add anything meaningful to the "pack" that they are involved in. Remember: Animals are not meant to be "meaningless" to the "pack" they are involved in. When this happens in the wild, they usually cease to exist, so they never encounter these problems
4. What needs to be done here is to empower your dog with independence... Over indulge your dog not when she is depending on you too closely, but to reinforce her when she is calm/confident in her surroundings... This means not overly reinforcing her "goodbyes " when you leave, and not over reinforcing her "hellos" when you come home. These are the starters in addressing the possibility of "separation anxiety" in canines.
5. Many "anxiety" behaviors can be curtailed by ruling out boredom and giving them things to do such as a stuffed Kongs or bones to keep them occupied while you are not there.
6. If you perceive that your animal may be suffering from separation anxiety, you need to get in touch with professional behaviorist/trainer who deals in positive reinforcement training.
7. In rare cases when your animal is experiencing "cognitive dysfunction", it is important to get you veterinarian involved, as they might be able to help you with behavior medication in conjunction with behavior training and modification.
How many walks and how much exercise does my dog need?
On average, dogs need three walks per day for 15 minutes at a time in the neighborhood (so they can see and experience different things) and 30 minutes of aerobic exercise per day (running, ball playing, high physical activity).
How often do I need to obedience train my dog or puppy?
Intense training should be done about three times a day for 10 or 15 minutes each session. Most important is to be consistent in using commands and immediate rewards throughout the day when interacting with your pups.
Can I teach an old dog new tricks?
Yes, but the older they are, the longer it will take for them to absorb something new.
How do I keep my cat from scratching up my furniture?
Keep their nails short, give plenty of scratching posts, and play with your cat daily. (Ask your vet to show you how to safely clip your cat's nails). Usually two to three play sessions per day for 15 minutes is sufficient. Be sure to use kitty teasers and not your hands to play.
How do I trim my cat's nails?
It is important to begin trimming your cat's nails at an early age. The younger your cat is, the more comfortable and cooperative she will be when you trim her nails. You should rest your cat comfortably on your lap or other surface. Hold her paw in your hand and gently press the toe pad to extend the claw. You should notice two distinct areas/colors of the nail; the thick area of the claw closest to the toe (the quick) is pink while the sharp area farthest from the paw is white. Trim the white area of the claw. DO NOT cut the pink area as this is tissue and may cause pain and bleeding. If your cat becomes anxious or upset, you can always stop and resume the task at a later time. You may want to consult a veterinarian for a demonstration/explanation.
Should I declaw my cat?
Not if you follow these simple steps! Bideawee agrees with the Declawing (Onychectomy) Position Statement by the American Animal Hospital Association. The statement that follows can be found on www.aahanet.org: Declawing of domestic cats should be considered only after attempts have been made to prevent the cat from using its claws destructively or when clawing presents a significant health risk for people within the household.
Bideawee believes that having a scratching post is an important step in training a cat to avoid destructive scratching behavior. Several companies manufacture scratching posts and other products that appeal to cats. Some companies and organizations have developed similar plans for do-it-yourself construction.
There are also other products that can help:
Sticky Paws: Sticky Paws' products provide cost effective solutions to cat scratching behavior and inappropriate elimination problems.
Soft Paws: Developed by a veterinarian, Soft Paws are vinyl nail caps that are applied to your cat's claws. This amazing product effectively covers the claws so no damage occurs when your cat scratches.
How long can my puppy reliably hold elimination?
You can reliably expect your puppy to keep from having accidents while being confined for as many hours as they are in months + 1. For example an 8 week (2 month) puppy can hold it for 3 hours (sometimes longer while sleeping). A crate (or cage) that is big enough for the puppy to stand up, turn around and lay down only is the most popular method of choice for short term confinement.
When can I expect my puppy to eliminate?
You can expect your pup to eliminate immediately after waking up, during or immediately after play, and after eating. It is important to know these times and create a situation that will set up success for you dog.
What do I do if my dog has an accident and I'm watching him/her?
"Accidents" that your pup or adult dog has is usually a result of lack of supervision... However, since no human being is perfect, "accidents" do happen. If you are at the scene of the crime you need to act quickly with your dog and say something like "outside" in a desperate but not negative tone. You do not want your dog to think going to the bathroom around you is bad, you just want to show them where to do it. Once your dog is outside, praise moderately while going, and have a "party" when it is completely done. Something like a high quality liver treat should be used specifically for positive reinforcement of housebreaking.
What if my dog has an accident and I find it later, do I show it to him/her?
If the dog has eliminated in an inappropriate spot, you need to first think about your routine/situation. "Accidents" are usually a result of lack of human supervision. Recommended are cleaning solutions that have enzymes specifically designed to break down pet smell (Nature's Miracle, or white vinegar solution). Clean the area (not while the dog is watching) and evaluate why it happened. If accidents continue to happen and you notice soft stool or dark urine, consult your vet as there may be a medical reason behind it.
My puppy keeps mouthing me. Is it normal?
Believe it or not, it is important that puppies use their mouth while they are young (prior to 6 months of age). By being "mouthy" your puppy is figuring out how to use their mouth appropriately. Mouthy behavior should become less frequent and severe over time, and by the time the pup is 6 months it should be under control. Remember, your puppy is also teething during this time, which is a small cause of mouthiness. If you feel however your pup is acting aggressively, you should consult a positive trainer to help you get over this difficult and important period. Time is of the essence.
When can I start training my puppy?
Your puppy should already be getting trained! By the time your dog is 8 weeks of age, they can learn a variety of commands and where to appropriately eliminate. So obviously, start right away (8weeks +). Make sure when you are doing intense training to keep it short (5-10 minutes), and repeat multiple times a day (3-5 times). Puppy training is not just "sit", "down", "stay", etc. It should involve handling, socializing, and basic manners. Enrolling your pup in a positively based puppy class is one of the most important things you can do. Don't Wait!
My dog is afraid of his "shadow". What do I do?
In most cases it is normal that your adult or young canine may be afraid of some things. It is important to understand that your reaction plays into it. If you see your dog is acting "scared" when faced with the unknown, you are much better off acting like nothing is wrong. Your dog will act from your confidence with the same. Coddling the dog can send mixed messages to him, and can lead to insecurity. For severe or chronic fear, seek a professional, positive trainer.
What are appropriate toys for my cat/kitten?
NOT YOUR HANDS! One of the most common occurrences in cats is the rough play with human hands. This is usually a result of the kitten or cat learning at an early age that hands are toys. Hands are not toys, they should be used for petting, holding and all things gentle. However, cats are natural predators and do need appropriate outlets. Some of the favorites are kitty teasers, scratching posts, and a simple crumpled up piece of paper. The important thing is that this kind of play does not involve human hands.
One question is chosen each month to be answered for this column. As always, if your pet is experiencing an emergency or displaying physical symptoms or any out-of-the-ordinary behaviors, please contact your veterinarian immediately.
Bideawee is not responsible for any medical information provided to you by this feature and is not liable for the health or well-being of your animal by virtue of making this feature available to you.
