Pet Health Information
COMMON MEDICAL ISSUES
WHAT IS LYME DISEASE?
Lyme disease is caused by a spirochete, Borrelia burgdorferi. A spirochete is a type of bacterium. It is transmitted to dogs through the bite of a tick. Once in the blood stream, the Lyme disease organism is carried to many parts of the body and is likely to localize in joints. It was first thought that only a few types of ticks could transmit this disease, but now it appears that several common species may be involved. The most common type of tick to carry Lyme disease is the Deer Tick.
Can Lyme disease also affect people?
Yes, but people do not get it directly from dogs. They get it from being bitten by the same ticks that transmit it to dogs. Therefore, preventing exposure to ticks is important for you and your dog.
What are the clinical signs?
Many people with Lyme disease develop a characteristic "bull's-eye" rash at the site of the bite within three to thirty days. For these people, the disease can be easily diagnosed at an early stage. However, symptoms of Lyme disease are more difficult to detect in animals than in people.
The characteristic rash does not develop in dogs or cats. Because the other symptoms of the disease may be delayed or go unrecognized and because the symptoms are similar to those of many other diseases, Lyme disease in animals is often not considered until other diseases have been eliminated.
Many dogs affected with Lyme disease are taken to a veterinarian because they seem to be experiencing generalized pain and have stopped eating. Affected dogs have been described as if they were "walking on eggshells." Often these pets have high fevers. Dogs may also begin limping. This painful lameness often appears suddenly and may shift from one leg to another. If untreated, it may eventually disappear, only to recur weeks or months later.
Recently, evidence is surfacing that a Lyme infection can affect the kidneys causing a syndrome known as Lyme Nephritis. This disease can progress to eventual kidney failure.
Some pets are affected with the Lyme disease organism for over a year before they finally show symptoms. Other dogs can have infections and never develop symptoms. In fact, this may happen more frequently than we once thought. It is thought that less than 10% of dogs that are infected actually develop symptoms.
How is Lyme disease diagnosed?
Dogs with lameness, swollen joints, and fever are suspected of having Lyme disease. However, other diseases may also cause these symptoms. As part of your dog's annual wellness exam, your vet may check for Lyme disease. If you live in a Lyme endemic area, your dog may have a positive test. This does not mean they have Lyme disease! It only indicates exposure to the ticks carrying the parasite. Your vet may or may not recommend treatment. However, if your dog is exhibiting clinical symptoms treatment is warranted. All dogs with a positive test should be screened for underlying and early kidney disease. This can be done with a urine sample.
How is Lyme disease treated?
Because the Lyme spirochete is a bacterium, it can be controlled by antibiotics. Doxycycline is the drug of choice. However, a lengthy course of treatment is necessary and total eradication of the organism is not likely. Occasionally, the initial infection will recur, or the pet will become re-infected after being bitten by another infected tick.
How can I prevent my dog from getting Lyme disease?
The key to prevention is keeping your dog from being exposed to ticks. Ticks are found in grassy, wooded, and sandy areas. They find their way onto an animal by climbing to the top of a leaf, blade of grass, or short trees and shrubs. Here they wait until their sensors detect a close-by animal on which to crawl or drop. Keeping animals from thick underbrush reduces their exposure to ticks. Dogs should be kept on trails when walked near wooded or tall grass areas. Total prevention is multi-faceted and includes immediate removal of the tick, (It takes time for an infected tick to transmit Borrelia to a dog, this typically can happen no sooner than 18-24 hours from the beginning of the blood meal), application of a tick repellent and vaccination. Prevention options should be discussed in detail with your veterinarian and tailored to your pets risk of exposure.
How do I remove a tick from my dog?
Check your pet immediately after it has been in a tick-infected area. The Deer Tick is a small tick and only about pinhead size in juvenile stage, but a little more obvious in adult phase and after feeding. If you find a tick moving on your pet, the tick has not fed. Remove the tick promptly and place it in rubbing alcohol or crush it between two solid surfaces. If you find a tick attached to your pet, grasp the tick with fine tweezers or your finger nails near the dog's skin and firmly pull it straight out. You may need another person to help restrain your dog. Removing the tick quickly is important since the disease is not transmitted until the tick has fed for approximately twelve hours. If you crush the tick, do not get the tick's contents, including blood, on your skin. The spirochete that causes Lyme disease can pass through a wound or cut in your skin.
HELPING FIDO LOSE THE WEIGHT
Between 25 and 40 percent of dogs are overweight, but owners often don't know it until they take their dog to the veterinarian for another reason.
Even veterinarians, however, can't tell if your dog is fat just by its weight. Ideal weight varies by breed, and quite widely within breeds. There's no ideal weight chart for all dogs!
You can judge your dog's condition by placing your hands on each side of his rib cage. Are the ribs protruding? Your dog may be too thin. Can you feel individual ribs easily, and is your dog's abdomen slightly tucked up when viewed from the side? That's the sign of ideal weight. If you can't feel the ribs easily, your dogs no waist, and his abdomen drags, then he's too fat!
Your veterinarian can help evaluate the finer points of your dog's weight.
What Causes Canine Obesity?
Dogs gain weight for the same reasons that people do. They eat more calories than they use. Today's dogs share another problem with their owners - lack of activity. Most owners are gone all day, and come home too tired to play with the dog.
As your dog ages, or after she/he is spayed or neutered, their metabolism will also slow, causing the dog to require less food.
Owners may also give frequent high-calorie treats. And sometimes more than one family member may be feeding the dog - and the dog certainly won't tell!
Getting Started
Once you have spoken to your veterinarian about a weight loss program, you and your dog are ready to begin!
Initially, you need to reduce your dog's caloric intake by 25%, then decrease the intake by 10% increments every two to three weeks until a 1% weight loss per week is achieved. This means that if your dog weighs 15 pounds, a 1% loss would be about 2-1/2 ounces.
If you feed one large meal a day, or keep food available at all times, try dividing the daily recommended ration into several small meals (at least two meals a day) and pick up what has not eaten after each meal.
Dog Body Condition Chart
Thin Dog
Underweight Dog
Ideal Dog
Overweight Dog
Obese Dog
How Can I Help My Dog Lose Weight?
Losing weight isn't easy. Changing your habits and your pet's is the key. Here are some ways you can help.
Do a family survey to be sure who feeds the dog, what, and when. Don't be embarrassed to admit you give your dog treats - dogs are expert beggars!
Substitute affection for treats by giving your dog a pat or by throwing a ball when he noses your hand.
Take the dog for a walk more often. Even 10 extra minutes a day can help.
What to Feed Your Dog
If your dog is more than 15 percent overweight, your veterinarian may recommend a special food. "Diet" foods should be low in fat (under 20 percent of calories from fat) and calories.
Your goal is to return your dog to a healthier weight, so select his food carefully. Some foods just add fiber to try to make the dog feel full. This can result in reduced digestibility, large stool volume, frequent defecation, and decreased skin and coat conditions because the dog may not be getting enough fat and nutrients.
You'll want to find a food that has normal fiber levels to keep your dog's digestive system working properly. It should have high-quality protein, so your dog doesn't lose muscle, too, and an adjusted fatty-acid ratio to help keep his skin flexible and coat glossy throughout the dieting process. Once your dog reaches ideal weight, select a maintenance food to keep weight steady.
Last Thing...
Remember, your dog needs your help to lose weight and stay healthy. Your efforts to follow the program recommended by your veterinarian can make a real different in your dog's health and lifespan.
CHILDREN AND PETS - Keep the Peace While Adding On to the Family
Children and pets are a natural combination. Most people have fond memories of growing up with a pet. But just as children and pets can offer each other companionship, they can also feel threatened by the addition of a new family member.
Therefore, before the newcomer - be it baby or pet - arrives, it is best to prepare the family by explaining what will change and what will not (your love), setting rules and limits and monitoring the interaction.
Bringing Baby Home
Babies mean new sights, sounds, and smells and they take the lion's share of the attention. And of these things may make your dog or cat feel threatened. If you plan ahead, you can make the arrival of a new baby much less stressful for you and your pet.
Begin by introducing scents, such as baby powder and lotion, before the baby's arrival. You can do this by using these products on yourself or on a small doll.
Once you have the nursery set up, allow your pet to gently inspect it. Install a baby gate and begin using it, or close the door when you aren't around so your pet doesn't have free access to this room. This helps establish boundaries before the baby arrives.
Once the baby is born, have your spouse or a familiar relative take a piece of baby clothing or a baby blanket home for your pet to smell. Keep the homecoming a quiet event. Throwing a party or inviting a bunch of guests right away will only make your pet more nervous and excitable.
Have Dad or a familiar relative carry the baby in so that Mom can greet the pet. Only after your pet has settled down should you attempt to introduce the newcomer.
Keep the first meeting brief and supervised. It may help to have someone familiar hold your pet while Mom holds the baby. Holding the pet provides a means of positive attention and safety.
It is a good idea to spend some special quality time with your pet once the baby has settled in for a nap. When the baby awakes and starts crying, however, provide reassurance to your pet to help alleviate any agitation at the new sound.
No matter how well the relationship seems to be progressing, however, never leave the baby and pet together unsupervised.
Bringing a Pet Home
Bringing a new pet home is similar to bringing home a baby.
Establish a quiet, out-of-the-way place for your new pet and set boundaries for the interaction. Just as your pet should not be allowed free access to the nursery, you child should not have free access to the pet's "home."
Interactions should supervised at all times and limited, especially during the first few months.
Once the child and pet comfortable around each other, invent games they can play together, such as fetch or dangling a piece of ribbon for a cat.
Toddler Years
The toddler years are the most difficult for child-pet interactions. The toddler is old enough to get to the dog or cat, but not old enough to handle pets responsibly. The normal sudden movements and high-pitched noises of a toddler may cause your pet to become overly excited or agitated. Therefore, it is important to continue watching interactions carefully.
Many pets adore children and will withstand vast amounts of roughhousing. But it is best to begin setting limits on play. Reading books about animals to your child can help your toddler understand that pets have feelings, too.
Take advantage of the enormous attention your child pays to your every move by using it as an example for acceptable behavior around pets. While your child is watching, gently rub your dog behind the ears or scratch your cat under the chin, all the while talking in a low soothing voice to your pet.
Learning to Get Along
Once your children are past the toddler stage, they are old enough to learn how to act around animals.
Teach children not to bother family pets when are sleeping or eating. They shouldn't pet a dog without asking permission and letting the dog sniff their hand first. And they should never chase or corner cats and dogs!
You may want to involve your child in the daily care of your pet. Small children can be taught to scoop food into a dish, or help brush a patient pet. If the pet is small enough to be handled, show your child how to properly pick up your pet. Again, it is important to supervise these activities.
It is also important to teach your pet how to behave around children. If your pet nips, react with a loud "ow!" and end playtime. Get it used to having things removed from its mouth. Remove the food dish or a special toy during food or playtime respectively, and then return it so your pet will learn to guard toys or food.
If you have a dog, arrange for you and your pet to attend an obedience class to speed learning of proper behavior.
By monitoring your children and pets and creating positive ways for them to interact, you can be assured of a happy family mix and hours of joyful play.
HAIRBALL FORMATION
GETTING OUT OF A HAIRY SITUATION
Many cats have a hairball at some point in their lives. Some cats, however, such as long-haired cats and cats who groom excessively, are especially prone to hairballs. Although hairballs are usually harmless, they can be unpleasant - for both the cat and the cat owner - to deal with.
How Hairballs Form
Knowing how hairballs form provides useful information for implementing steps to successfully reduce hairballs.
Most cats spend quite a bit of time grooming their coat. A cat's rough tongue is specially equipped to wipe away dirt and loose hair. As cats groom, however, they swallow hair, which may build up over time in the stomach. If the ingested hair doesn't pass into the intestines, the cat will cough or gag in an attempt to bring it up.
Help for Hairballs
The first and most basic step to help reduce the risk of hairball formation in cats is frequent brushing. By brushing away loose hair, you can reduce the amount of hair your cat will ingest.
Therefore, you also reduce the chance that the hair will gather in the digestive tract. Some cats groom themselves and their housemates. Therefore it's a good idea to brush all the cats in your house.
Baths or professional grooming during a change in season help by ridding the cat of the loose hair from normal, seasonal shedding.
Diet
Nutrition - provided through a specially designed diet - is another way to decrease the likelihood of developing hairballs. Dietary fiber is usually the way special diets accomplish this.
Most special diets contain one type of fiber to help move bulk through the intestines (nonfermentable). Nonfermentable fiber, such as cellulose, isn't broken down by the normal bacteria in a cat's intestines. Instead it passes through the digestive tract, helping other material, such as hair, move along as well.
Other special diets contain a combination of nonfermentable fiber and another type of fiber (moderately fermentable). Moderately fermentable fiber, such as beet pulp, helps move bulk and helps provide nourishment to intestinal cells which, in turn, helps maintain intestinal health.
Because of the special fiber content, these diets are most effective if they are fed as the sole diet. Mixing with other foods can dilute the fiber that helps reduce the risk of hairball formation.
Likewise, switching between a special diet and another cat food may decrease the benefit.
Another that nutrition can help reduce the likelihood of hairball formation is by promoting skin and coat health.
High-quality diets containing animal-based proteins such as chicken, and a combination of fats - more specifically, a ratio of certain fat components (5-10 omega-6 fatty acids to 1 omega-3 fatty acid ) - have been shown to promote healthy skin and coat.
Feeding a diet that provides these ingredients can help keep skin and hair healthy and, therefore, may reduce the risks of:
PARASITIC INFECTION IN PETS: Five Common Questions
What Is Parasitic Zoonosis?
Some parasitic infections in pets can be transmitted from animals to people. The three common zoonotioc internal parasities in pets are roundworms, hookworms, and tapeworms.
Who Is At Risk?
Parents should be aware of these parasitic diseases because young children are especially at risk. Children are often less careful abou thypgience, more likely to put their hands in their mouths, and commonly in potentially contaminated dirt, grass, or sand.
How Arre These Infections Transmitted?
Children become infected by playing in soil or sand that is contaminated with fecal matter and then putting their hands or contaminated objects in their mouths. Hookworm larvae can also penetrate human skin.
When Are These Parasites a Problem?
Instestinal parasite eggs and larvae are virtually everywhere in the environment, and some can survive in the soil for years with the ability to infect pets or people. Some species thrive in warm climates whil others prosper in cold regions. This is why routine deworming and preventative steps are so important.
Where Can I Get More Information?
It's easy to pkeep your p[ets healthy by routinely deworming you pet. See the veterinarians at Bideawee or your own for more information on parasites, prevention and the most complete treatment available for your pets. You may also visit www.nowroms.com.
Strategic deworming is recommended by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), the American Association of Veterinary Parasitologists (AAVP) and the Companion Animasl Parasite COUncil (CAPC).
9 Easy Steps to Reduce the Risk of Parasitic Infection
You can easily reduce the risk to your family and pets from parasite infections by following these simples preventive measures.
1. Deworm your dog or cat on a regular schedule recommended by your veterinarian. This removes intestinal parasite and reduces additional contamination of the enrionment.
2. Practice good hypgiene. Wash hands regularly, especially after handling pets or cleaning up pet waste.
3. Remove pet droppings from you yard at least 2-3 times a week. Daily is best to eliminate potential contamination. Children should avoid playing iknown animal toilating areas. Cover sandboxes when not in uses.
4. Keep pets flea-=free. Fleas transmit disease, and ingestion of fleas can transmit tapeworms to animals and people.
5. Do not allow children to go barefoot, sit, or lie on playgrouns on in parks where they are exposed to animal stools. Hookworm larvae can penetrate the skin.
6. Clean cat litter boxes daily and wash hands afterward.
7. DO no drink water from streams of other sources that may be contimated wth animal feces.
8. Wash all fruits and vegetables thoroughly before eating.
9. Keep pets cleans; bathe pets after deworming.
ROUNDWORMS AND HOOKWORMS
Worms like roundworms and hookworms that infect pets can infect people, too. These infections, like others acquired from animals, are called zoonotic infections, or zoonoses. You owe it to yourself and your family to find out about these zoonotic infections, and learn how to prevent them.
What Are Roundworms and Hookworms?
The most common type of parasitic worms found in cats and dogs are roundworms and hookworms. Both are intestinal parasites, living and growing inside your pet's intestine. Roundworms and hookworms develop from eggs into larvae (immature worms). The larvae later become adult worms.
Most pets show no sign of infection; but some do. Signs include vomiting, loss of appetite, or severe weight loss. Heavy infections in young puppies and kittens may be fatal.
How Does a Pet Get Worms?
Dogs and cats of any age can get roundworms and hookworms; but as puppies and kittens, they are at their most vulnerable. It's not unusual for puppies just two to three weeks of age to harbor a significant number of worms. That's because these worms are often passed from mother to puppies before birth. Sometimes they are passed shortly after birth, through her milk.
How Do These Worms Infect People?
Dogs and cats infected with these worms contaminate their surroundings by passing eggs of larvae in their feces (waste). Because pets pass feces anywhere, they may contaminate a large area quickly. These eggs and larvae are resilient and can survive in areas such as parks, playgrounds, and yards - and even inside homes.
People get roundworm and hookworm infections through direct contact with infected feces. This usually happens by change ingestion of contaminated soil, sand, or plant life. Hookworm larvae penetrate the skin. Children are more vulnerable to infection than adults, perhaps because they play on the ground with dirt that may be contaminated. Maybe it's because kids are more likely to put dirty object into their mouths. Some children pass through a stage in which they eat dirt (pica). Thus, they are more prone to get these infections.
How Do Roundworms Harm People?
Roundworms enter the body when ingested as eggs that soon hatch into larvae. These larvae travel through the liver, lungs, and other organs. In most cases, these "wandering worms" cause no symptoms or apparent damage. However, in some cases they produce a condition known as visceral larva migrans. The larvae may cause damage to tissue and sometimes affect the nerves, or even lodge in the eye. In some cases, they may cause permanent nerve or eye damage, even blindness.
How Do Hookworms Harm People?
Hookworm larvae typically move about within the skin, causing inflammation in the affected skin. This is called cutaneous (skin) larva migrans. One type of hookworm can penetrate into deeper tissues and cause more serious damage to the intestine and other organs.
How Can I Protect My Pets and Myself Against Worm Infections?
Bideawee's veterinary staff can recommend treatments to eliminate and help prevent these worm infections. Since these products are available in many forms, you and your Bideawee vet can choose which one works best for your dog or cat. Ask for the product that is most effective against the worms to which pets in your area are likely to be exposed.
You can take the following steps to make you and your pet safe from worms:
Have puppies and kittens dewormed by your Bideawee vet at an early age.
Start or keep your pets on a preventive drug program that treats and controls these worms.
Learn to recognize and avoid possibly contaminated soil, sand, plants, and other objects. Teach your children to do the same.
Keep play areas, lawns, and gardens around your home free of animal waste...
Bag and dispose of pet feces.
Cover sandboxes when not in use.
Follow leash laws in your area.
CARING FOR YOUR PET'S TEETH - PETS NEED DENTAL CARE, TOO!
Have you brushed? No, not your teeth - your pet's! Dogs and cats need regular dental care just as you do.
Gum disease and broken teeth are the major concerns for your pet's mouth. Fortunately, pets seldom suffer from tooth decay. The cone shape of their teeth, non-0acidic salvia, and low-carbohydrate diets all help protect them from this nasty ailment - unless you give your pets sweets for snacks, and then they can get cavities.
Regular brushing and professional cleaning can keep your pet's teeth healthy and gleaming. Feeding a diet formulated to reduce tartar buildup can also help. Giving appropriate toys to chew helps prevent fractured teeth.
Does It Really Matter?
So you pet has dirty teeth. What's the big deal? Every day, plaque -- a soft, clear, or cream-color deposit -- forms on the teeth. If it isn't removed by brushing, plaque can turn into hard brown or yellow tartar because of the minerals in the pet's saliva.Tartar builds up both above and below the gum line and can lead to more serious dental problems. Tartar cannot be removed by brushing; only a professional can remove tartar.
The bacteria in the mouth that accumulate around tartar deposits can lead to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease, which affects the gums, bones, and connective tissues around the teeth, can cause tooth loss. The same bacteria can enter your pet's bloodstream and cause or aggravate lung, kidney, liver, and heart problems - a lot of trouble from something that could be stopped in its early stages!
Start Pet's Dental Care Young
When you puppy or kitten first begins to get permanent teeth, check carefully to be sure the baby (deciduous) teeth fall out as the new teeth come in. Retained teeth can cause the permanent teeth to be crooked. Toy dog breeds with their tiny jaws are at a higher risk for this problem.
Pets can develop gum disease - gingivitis - before age two. While hard foods and chew toys can help keep teeth clean, chewing hard objects such as bones can also cause tooth breakage. To help prevent broken teeth, watch how your dog chews a new toy. If the dog is aggressively biting down trying to crack the toy, you should probably take the object away. For aggressive chewers, look for toys they can't get their jaws around or toys that soften as they chew. Rawhide is an alternative, but if too much is swallowed it can make your pet sick or - in more severe cases - cause a blockage in the intestines.
You should also get your pet accustomed to regular tooth brushing. As soon as you bring your new pet home, get it accustomed to having its mouth handled. This is good practice for dogs that will be shown since judges check to be sure the dog has its full set of teeth. It is also good training because it teaches the dog to tolerate having things in its mouth without biting or snapping.
Teach Your Pet to Accept Brushing
It is important to choose a time when both you and your pet are relaxed. With patience, you can train your pet to accept regular brushing.
How to begin: Run your finger gently over the pet's gums. At first, just rub the outside, but as your pet adjusts to the routine, begin to open his mouth and rung the gum inside the teeth as well. For the few times, don't use a toothbrush. Eventually add toothpaste design for pets to your finger so you dog can get used to the taste. Do not use human toothpaste!
Introducing the toothbrush: After your pet gets accustomed to having his mouth touched, you're ready for the next step. Place a small amount of toothpaste on the brush. In a slow circular motion, brush one or two teeth and the adjoining gum line. Repeat this step for a few days to get your pet used to the feel of the toothbrush.
Over the next several days, gradually increase the number of teeth brushed. Go slowly and gently. Stop brushing before your pet begins to fuss. Otherwise, your pet will learn to dislike the brushing and it will only take longer to help them adjust. Build up to about 30 seconds per side. Dogs don't get much tartar on the inner surfaces of their teeth, son concentrate on the outside surfaces.
Remember to stop each session while it is still fun and lavishly praise your pet afterwards. With careful and patient practice, tooth brushing can become a pleasant activity for both of you.
Feeding Right
What you feed your pet can affect its dental health. Dry foods and biscuits can help clean plaque from the teeth. Some pet food manufacturers make diets formulated to prevent the formation of plaque and tartar. You should feed your pet treats that are high in decay-causing sugars. Veterinary dental experts have noticed a mild increase in cavities among pets fed sugary treats.
How Can I Tell If My Pet Has a Dental Problem?
Most dental problems develop gradually, so even the most conscientious pet owner might miss some of the warning signs. Bad breath is often an early indicator of dental disease. Cats may exhibit increased or decreased grooming. Both cats and dogs might be reluctant to eat or play with toys. Check your pet's teeth by gently lifting the lips and checking for tart, inflamed gums, missing or broken teeth, or pain and bleeding when you touch the gums or mouth. If these signs are present, you should consult your veterinarian.
When Your Pet Needs Professional Help
If your pet won't cooperate with home brushing, or if you already see brown tartar stains or red and bleeding gums, it's time to turn to your veterinarian for help. He or she will give your pet general anesthesia and clean the teeth above and below the gum line to remove plaque and tartar. After the teeth are cleaned, they will be polished to remove microscopic plaque and to make the teeth smooth to discourage plaque from clinging.
Remember the Three "Ds"
Daily brushing
Diet
Dentistry
These are all an important part of your pet's health care. Even if your pet cooperates with frequent brushing, he should still see a veterinarian for occasional dental cleanings.
For your pet's health care needs, contact Bideawee's veterinary practice!
PET TOXINS AND POISONS
Do you know what pet toxins and poisons are in your home?
A Growing Epidemic
Each year, thousands of dogs and cats suffer needlessly, and many die from accidental ingestion of household poisons. The poisons in your home come in many forms - from popular houseplants and medications to common foods and pesticides. Household hazards lay in wait. Do you know where to look for them?
Budding Poisons
They may be pretty, but some plants are poisonous - and even deadly. As little as a single leaf from any lily variety can be lethal to your cats.
Other plants to avoid are:
Toxic Medications
Acetaminophen is found in more than 200 prescription and nonprescription formulations such as Tylenol, Hydrocodone (Vicodin) and Lorcet. Acetaminophen reduces our pains and fevers: But just one pill can kill a cat. A dog that ingests it can suffer kidney failure and liver damage.
Dogs are most commonly poisoned by ibuprofen, enticed by the pill's sweet coating. Common brands of ibuprofen include Advil, Midol, and Motrin, although it comes in many generic forms as well.
The Wrath of Grapes
The Animal Poison Control Center advises that as few as seven grapes can be fatal to dogs. Current, the exact toxic component remains unclear; but symptoms can last several days to weeks - if your pet responds to treatment. Other toxic foods include avocados, chocolate, coffee, raisins, nutmeg, onions, garlic, raw salmon, and the sweetener Xylitol, which is found in items like sugar-free candy and gum.
Ease Off the Antifreeze
Common sense may tell you that antifreeze is deadly. But are you aware how often pets are exposed to it? You can look no farther than your driveway or garage, on the street or in a parking lot for it. To keep your pet from licking antifreeze, pour cat litter or sand over the sweet-smelling fluid. Pet-safe antifreeze is also available at many stores.
Caution with Cleaners
We're not advising you to stop cleaning your house, but be careful where you store potentially hazardous cleaning products. Pets can gain access to bottles found in lower cabinets or the trash can. IN particular, bathroom cleaners that contain bleach or disinfectant sprays can cause very serious chemical burns on the tongue and upper esophagus if a pet licks or consumes them.
Deadly Flea Products
Some flea products are more harmful than the fleas themselves. Many over-the-counter treatments contain the toxins pyrethrin and permethrin, and insecticide commonly used to kill fleas on dogs. Before you buy a topical flea product, ask your veterinarian which ones are safe for your pet.
Top Toxins
Pets are commonly treated for ingesting the following poisons:
Toxic-Free Tips
A few simple measures can prevent accidental poisoning:
Use covered trash bins inside the house to prevent access to disposed medications, empty cleaning bottles, dental floss, and food. Keep pets out of the garage or shed, away from oil and antifreeze leaks from cars.
Don't store cleaners under sinks, unless you can securely close them within cabinets.
During the holidays, cover your tree's water so pets can't drink out of the stand. And remember, pine needles are poisonous.
SAVING YOUR PETS WHEN DISASTER HAPPENS
What Qualifies As a Disaster?
A disaster is a situation that causes human suffering or creates human needs that the victims cannot alleviate without assistance. Types of disasters that can affect where you live include fires, hurricanes, floods, earthquakes, tornados, or explosions.
Disasters come in many shapes, whether it happens just in your region, your neighborhood, or just to one family. If you're a pet owner, you should be especially prepared.
Take Your Pets with You When Disaster Strikes
Would you leave behind your children? Think of pets as your children and know that the best thing to do during a disaster is to take them with you! Create a disaster plan for your family and your pets: Do not wait until a disaster strikes to do your research. Remember, your pet will be happiest in a familiar environment, such as a friend's house, your veterinarian's office, or some similar place.
Leave your home early. Don't wait for a mandatory evacuation order before getting out! An unnecessary trip is much better than waiting too long to leave safely with your pets. Don't wait to be evacuated by emergency officials. Activate your plans early. While there may be emergency pet shelters established, there is no guarantee your pet can actually be accommodated.
In the event that an emergency shelter needs to be in operation, veterinarians in your areas, along with technicians and professional animal handlers, may be available to care for pets.
What Do I Do When Disaster Happens?
If you get word that a storm is approaching, call ahead to confirm emergency shelter arrangements for you and your pets. Microchipping your pet is highly recommended. Bring all pets inside so that you won't have to search for them if you need to evacuate in a hurry. Never leave animals unattended.
Cats and Dogs - Make sure all cats and dogs are wearing securely fastened collars with up-dot-date identification. Cats and dogs should be transported in an appropriate carrier or crate.
Birds - Use a secure travel cage or carrier to transport birds. In cold weather, wrap a blanket over the carrier and warm up the car before placing a bird inside. During warm weather, carry a plant mister to mist the birds' feathers periodically. Do not put water inside the carrier during transport. Provide a few slices of fresh fruits and vegetables with high water content. Have photo identification and leg bands. If the carrier does not have a perch, line it with paper towels and change them frequently. Try to the keep the carrier in a quiet area. Do not let the birds out of the cage or carrier.
Reptiles - Snakes can be transported in a pillowcase but they must be transferred to more secure housing when they reach the evacuation site. If your snake requires frequent feedings, carry food with you. Take a water bowl large enough for soaking and a heating pad. When transporting house lizards, follow the same directions as for birds.
Pocket pets (small mammals) - Pocket pets should be transported in secure carriers suitable for maintaining the animals while in a shelter. Take bedding materials, food bowls, and water bottles.
Need a Disaster Checklist?
The following are tips recommended by many animal welfare and rescue organizations as to how to prepare you and your pet for a disaster:
Also have the following ready to go:
The Contacts You Have
Check with your friends, relatives, or others outside your immediate area and ask if they would be able to shelter you and your animals - or just your animals, if necessary.
Make a list of boarding facilities and veterinary offices that might be able to shelter animals in emergencies; include 24-hour telephone numbers.
Ask your local animal shelter if it provides foster care or shelter for pets in an emergency.
Contact hotel and motels outside your immediate area to check policies on accepting pets. Ask about any restrictions on number, size, and species. Ask if "no pet" policies would be waived in an emergency. Make a list of pet friendly places and keep the list handy. Call ahead for a reservation as soon as you think you might have to leave your home.
What If I'm Not Home When a Disaster Happens?
Make arrangements well in advance for a trusted neighbor to take your pets and to meet you at a specified location. Be sure the person is comfortable with your pets, has a key to your home, and knows where your disaster supplies are.
Are You And Your Pets Prepared?
You don't need to be overwhelmed every time you think of developing a disaster plan for your animals. There are only two basic questions you need to answer.
Question 1 - How am I going to safely and securely transport my animals during a disaster?
Question 2 - Where am I going to keep my animals while I am evacuated?
Once you've answered them, you are well on your way to safeguarding your animals.
EXPANDING THE PET FAMILY: KEEP THE FUR FROM FLYING WHEN INTRODUCING A PUPPY OR KITTEN TO AN OLDER PET
Your Older Pet
Even if your older dog or cat has lived peacefully with other animals in the house, there is no guarantee that a new puppy or kitten will be welcomed, or even tolerated!
Some benign older animals will readily accept any pet brought into the home. But keep in mind that even the calmest dog or cat may be concerned at the appearance of a new puppy or kitten.
When you bring a new puppy or kitten into the home, your older dog or cat will need extra attention. He needs to know that you still love him and that the newcomer is not threat to his position in your household.
Your New Pet
Chances are your new puppy or kitten will be curious about his new surroundings and its occupants. Your new puppy or kitten may see your older pet as a new playmate and be ready to make friends, or your puppy or kitten may be shy.
Either way, it is best to isolate your newcomer when you first bring him home. Be sure to choose a room in neutral territory, and not in a room where your older pet sleeps or eats. Allow the puppy or kitten to explore a bit while you supervise. Then leave the newcomer alone for a short time so she can become comfortable in the new surroundings. This will also allow you time to reassure the older pet.
Introductions
Animals get to know each other by smell. Therefore, don't be alarmed if you older pet spends a lot of time sniffing at the bottom of the door of the newcomer's room. This is normal. After a day or two, you should be able to determine what the older pet's reaction to the puppy or kitten is. A dog anxious to meet the new pet will scratch at the door and wag his tail, while a cat will purr and generally act curious or friendly. If your dog growls or barks at the door, or if your cat hisses and seems upset, it would be best to wait a few more days before attempting further interaction.
Take It Slowly!
When your older pet seems ready, introduce the pets by opening the door just wide enough so they can see and smell each other. Be certain that you stand close by to supervise. Gradually open the door wider for short periods of time until they have adjusted to looking at each other without becoming upset. This procedure may take several days, but it is usually successful.
Alternatively, replace the closed door with a baby gate. Again, be certain that you stand close by to supervise.
The first time the two pets meet face to face should be short and, hopefully, calm. If the older pet is a dog, proper restraint, such as a leash, will prevent him from chasing and scaring the newcomer.
Most important, don't force the issue. Let the animals go as close, or stay as far away, as they want. Repeat short introductions as often as necessary, until the animals are able to stay comfortably in the same room, with supervision. Don't expect instant friendship - that takes time.
A Place for Everyone
Your older pet needs to be reassured that the newcomer will not take over his territory. Therefore, don't allow the newcomer to take over a favorite sleeping or eating place.
Don't expect your older pet to be willing share his possessions, either. Animals are often possessive of their food and feeding dishes. Ideally, since the puppy or kitten requires an appropriate puppy or kitten food for its developing life stage, separate feeding dishes should be provided, preferably in a different room for a while.
Monitor mealtimes to prevent either animal from pushing the other away from its plate. Since most puppy and kitten foods are recommended for the first 12 months, it may be a good idea to continue feeding your newcomer in a closed room for awhile.
Equip the newcomer's room with a bed, water dishes, and toys. Kittens should also be provided with a scratching post and a litter pan. Two or more cats in a household often do share a litter pan, but many adult cats do not appreciate sharing with a kitten, at least until they are better adjusted. Providing your kitten with its own litter pan should help prevent your adult cat from starting to soil in inappropriate areas as an act of rebellion.
Friends, Friendly Enemies, or Foes?
It may take a year or more for your older pet and the puppy or kitten to become totally comfortable with each other. They may never become friends, but may simply learn to tolerate each other. Even if they remain standoffish, most pets appreciate another warm body in the house when their owners are not there. Over time, the majority of pets find a workable relationship, even if they are not best friends!
CATS AND BARTONELLA: "The Cat Scratch Disease" Bacteria
Approximately 20% of healthy cats living in the United States are infected carriers of these dangerous Bartonella bacteria. You can learn to stop the spread of Bartonella from cat to cat, and cat to human, with a simple blood test of your cat.
Introduction
Healthy cats can carry six members of the Bartonella bacteria family in their blood, which are transmitted between cats by fleas and ticks. The bacteria can be spread to people via cat scratches, bites, contact with fur, and probably rarely by infected fleas and ticks.
Bartonella are difficult to culture from the blood of infected cats. There is, however, an accurate blood test available that can detect infected cats. Please make an appointment with Bideawee's veterinary practice if you feel your cat may need to be tested.
How Prevalent is Bartonella Infection?
The prevalence of Bartonella-infected cats varies in different geographic areas, and depends on the average temperature and rainfall (humidity) in the area. About 20% of healthy cats in the United States are infected carriers. The highest infection rates occur in hot, humid climates, where conditions are favorable for fleas and ticks. Most untreated infected cats remain infected for years of for life.
Risk Factors for Infection
Risk facts that make cats more likely to have flea infestation and thus become infected with Bartonella are:
Cat Bartonella Disease
Cat Bartonella possess hair-like structures found on the bacteria's surface, which allow the bacteria to stick to, and penetrate, red blood cells and the cells that make up the walls of capillaries. This ability leads to the wide and varied tissue specificity observed in cats, dogs, and people. Bartonella induce inflammatory reactions in many tissues throughout the infected animal's body, such as oral and respiratory mucosa, ocular tissue, gastro-intestinal tissues, the skin, and organs like the liver, spleen, and lymph nodes. In fact, since capillaries are found in all tissues, all tissues are susceptible to the inflammatory effects of Bartonella. Inflammatory reactions often occur concurrently in multiple sites such as the oral respiratory tissues, ocular and oral tissues or in other combinations. Although numerous microorganisms can cause inflammatory diseases, it appears that Bartonella are the cause of about 40 to 50% of the following conditions in pet cats:
Treatment of Bartonella
Antibiotic therapy of health infected cats and cats with Bartonella-induced diseases are effective for most cats. Owners should be careful while treating their cats to avoid being scratched or bitten.
Bartonella Disease in Humans
Bartonella transmitted from cats can cause up to 22 human diseases - and "cat scratch disease" is only the tip of the Bartonella disease iceberg. The Bartonella diseases that can infect humans are
Cat Scratch Disease
Cat scratch disease is the best-known Bartonella disease. More than 22,000 cases occur each year, from which more than 2,000 people require hospitalization. The disease usually begins a few weeks after transmission of Bartonella from cats with a red papule at the site of a scratch or bite. Lymph nodes that drain the injury site become inflamed, enlarged, painful, and may develop an abscess that may burst and drain. Severe cases may involve the organs, neurological complications, and in rare cases, a coma.
The eyes are a common site of Bartonella localization in people where generalized inflammation occurs in the outer membranes, eyelids, irises, retina, and optic nerves.
Neurological disorders like encephalopathy, convulsions, and coma are some conditions associated with Bartonella infections in people.
Bartonella infections may also cause persistent or intermittent fevers (101 to 105 degrees) where a physician is unable to diagnose the case. The high fevers and flu-like signs may last 7 to 10 days.
Infectious Mononucleosis-like Syndrome may occur in children, clinically identical to infectious mononucleosis, because of Bartonella infection.
Last, some people with chronic Lyme disease whose conditions were resistant to treatment were found to be co-infected with Bartonella. The signs of disease in these people cleared after treatment for Bartonella.
What Can You Do Against Bartonella?
Test. We recommend that all healthy pet cats, especially those obtained as strays or from shelters or animal rescue organizations, and those that have had flea infestations, be tested for Bartonella. Kittens are more likely than older cats to transmit the bacteria because of their playful nature and their interactions with people, especially children. Interestingly, boys are more likely to develop cat scratch disease more often than girls, probably because boys play more roughly with kittens and thus are more likely to be scratched or bitten. It is especially important that cats owned by people with young children, people whose cats have been infested with fleas, and people with immunosuppressed systems because of chemotherapy, organ transplants, or HIV infection, have their cats tested.
Treat. If your cat is infected, your veterinarian will prescribe antibiotic therapy and intensive flea control. Antibiotic therapy can rid these bacteria from your cat and make your pet safe once again.
HOUSETRAINING YOUR DOG: Tips to Help You with Your Puppy or Dog
Housetraining
As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Punishing a puppy or dog for a mess that has already happened is the hard way. Using ample supervision and positive reinforcement is the easy way.
Designate a Spot
Designating an appropriate elimination area outdoors and accompanying your dog to this location until he associates this spot with eliminating is a good way to start training your puppy or dog.
The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the place for the pup to do his business. Praise and an occasional food reward also help encourage elimination in a desired area.
To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to go potty, simply repeat a unique command as your puppy does his business, such as "hurry up" or "potty" in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks, you will notice that when you say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling, then eliminate shortly after you give the command.
Scheduling
Another way to ensure success is to set up a schedule. Start by controlling your puppy's feeding schedule. Meal times should be consistent and arranged so that you will available to let him out after eating.
To avoid messes while you are away, avoid giving your puppy a large meal prior to confinement. The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before your puppy is confined for the night.
Still, controlling the feeding schedule is only one way to develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.
Similar scheduling considerations should be taken for exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors to the elimination area.
Crate Training
Training a puppy to be comfortable in a crate is a popular way to provide safe confinement during housetraining. The majority of puppies will rapidly accept crate confinement when you make the introduction fun. Play with him there or spend some time reading or watching television nearby as he relaxes with a favorite chew toy.
Make training a game. Feed your puppy his dinner, one piece at a time, by tossing pieces of kibble into the crate for him to chase and eat. Store toys in the crate so he will enter on his own to play. You may even want to occasionally hide a biscuit in the crate.
When you do have to crate while you are away, make sure you don't use the crate for periods that exceed the length of time the pet can actually control the urge to urinate or defecate.
Expect Mistakes!
Left on his own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Close supervision is very important to training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone at least four consecutive weeks without eliminating in the house.
For older dogs, this period should be even longer. Until then you puppy or dog should be constantly within your eyesight. Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision.
When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to monitor your pet's activities, confine him to a small, safe area in the home.
Nervous Wetting
If your dog or puppy squats and urinates when he greets you, he may have a problem called submissive urination. Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward the head during greetings.
Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a tasty treat each time someone greets him.
What to Do (and What Not to Do)
It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess. You need to be ready to handle the inevitable problems.
Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the home where he made a mess. Be sure to use a good commercial product manufactured specifically to clean up pet odors and follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage.
Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed for several months. He should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member.
If you see your dog getting ready to mess in the house, provide a moderate, startling distraction such as a loud "No!" or a quickly stomp on the floor. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you, even outdoors.
Finally, don't rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. It usually doesn't work, and may delay training.
Success!
The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple; but a fair amount of patience is required. The most challenging part is always keeping an eye on your dog or puppy. If you maintain control, take your dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should have a housetrained canine companion.
Keep these points in mind as you work with your pet:
HOW TO IDENTIFY AND CORRECT FELINE HOUSE SOILING For the cat owner, it can be frustrating to live with a wonderful pet that can't seem to find her way to the litter box. There are many reasons why a cat might not use the litter box. Pinning down the exact cause is very important and may take some careful observation.
Possible explanations why your cat may be urinating outside the litter box include litter issues, territorial issues, anxiety, or medical reasons.
Litter Box Issues
If your cat has recently begun urinating in inappropriate areas, begin by investigating the litter box. One of the most common reasons for house soiling is a dirty litter box. Cleaning the litter box more frequently or investing in more than one litter box, especially for multi-cat households, may solve the problem.
Occasionally, some cats may prefer a different kind of litter. Try purchasing a second litter box and another type of litter. Offer both litter boxes to your cat for about a week and observe which is used more often. You may need to repeat this process a few times with several kinds of litter.
It should be no surprise that cats prefer privacy when using their litter. Check to see if the litter box is in a high-traffic area. If it is, move it to a more secluded location.
With any of these problems, it may help to retrain your cat. Begin by confining the cat to a small area, such as a bathroom, along with the litter box. Most cats seem to prefer eliminating in the box rather than soiling the floor. It is then a matter of confining your cat long enough for a consistent habit to become established.
Only allow your cat out of the confined area when you can supervise him or her at all times. It may help for you to spend some time playing and interacting socially with your cat during this free time. After about one to four weeks, you can gradually allow more freedom to your cat under gradually relaxed supervision.
Territory and Anxiety
Cats are territorial creatures and mark their territory with scent, most often with urine. Marking - also called "spraying" - may occur when
Your cat feels his or her territory is being invaded - If other pets in the household are contributing to the problem, separate them from your spraying cat or create a separate area for your spraying cat.
When neighborhood cats visit - Discourage stray and neighbor cats from visiting your property by removing anything in the yard that might attract them, such as bird feeders, garbage, or food. When you cannot keep outdoor cats from visiting your property, take steps to prevent your cat from seeing them. Move furniture away from windows, close drapes, or modify windowsills so there is no room for your cat to perch and watch outdoors.
It is also important to clean urine odor from around doors and windows, both inside and outside.
Your cat becomes anxious - Cats also spray when they feel threatened by the arrival of a new pet or family member. Or maybe your cat is trying to tell you that he is upset by the absence of another pet or family member! If your male cat has not been neutered, consider having this done. Male cats may stop spraying following the surgery. For difficult cases, medication may be required to stop your cat from spraying. If you are having a tough time controlling the problem, consult your veterinarian. Medication may not work for every cat, but for some cats, it may be the only thing that does.
Medical Issues
Signs of medical issues include:
If your cat is experiencing these signs, a visit to your veterinarian for a medical evaluation is very important. The doctor can perform tests to diagnose specific disorders and recommend specific treatments. Retraining your cat to use the litter box may also be necessary.
What Can I Do?
Removing the odor from the affected areas is important. Use a good commercial product that is specifically formulated to work on feline stool and urine odors. Most products need to make contact with the urine or stool. Use the product as directed in the manufacturer's instructions.
Discourage a cat from returning to a common problem area with two-sided tape or aluminum foil. Cats generally don't like the feel of either on their feet and will avoid it. Or, place the litter box over the problem area. If it is in an undesirable location, gradually move it to another location after the cat becomes used to using the litter box.
If you catch your cat eliminating in an inappropriate area, you may squirt her with a water gun or make a noise enough to distract her. Try not to let your cat know you are the source of the correction.
What Not to Do
Punishment is rarely effective and can actually make problems worse, especially if it is harsh or delayed. Under no circumstances should you swat or physically punish your cat! For example, rubbing your cat's nose in the soiled area is ineffective and can actually heighten the problem. Any rough handling of your cat followed by placement in the litter box may lead to a negative association with the litter box. By taking a calm, rational approach to uncovering the cause and treating the problem, your chances of success will be increased.
PROBLEM CHEWING: Tips for Dealing with Puppies and Adult Dogs That Chew
Chewing: Puppies and Dogs
Chewing is a normal behavior for puppies and dogs. They use their mouths for grasping food, gaining information about the environment, relieving boredom, and reducing tension. Chewing appears to be great fun. Chewing, however, becomes a major problem when valued objects are damaged.
Why Do Dogs Chew?
When you couple strong jaws with the curiosity and high energy of an exploring puppy, the result is an incredible chewing machine! The speed at which puppies can wreak havoc in a house, and the extent of the damage they can do, can really take you by surprise.
There are a variety of reasons why puppies chew.
Reasons to Chew
Noises behind a wall, such as a high-pitched heater motor or the scurrying footsteps of a mouse, might trigger investigative chewing.
A delay in feeding time may send a hungry dog off chewing into cabinets as he searches for food.
Food spilled on a piece of furniture can cause a puppy to tear into it with his teeth in hopes of finding something tasty to eat.
Dogs make good pets because they have a very social nature and plenty of energy to share in activities with us. In return, we need to provide enough exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction for them to avoid destructive behavior.
A Puppy's World
Puppies usually pass time or break the boredom by using their mouths, which may result in destructive behavior. Household destruction occurs because puppies are simply entertaining themselves.
Sometimes we unwittingly contribute to a puppy's problem by improper training. Puppies are unable to determine the difference between old shoes and new ones, or between stuffed toys and the corner of a stuffed couch.
Likewise, tug-of-war games can set up the puppy to fail. A puppy or dog entertained by tearing a towel is tempted to attack curtains fluttering in a breeze.
Can a Second Pet Help?
It is usually not the best course of action to get a second pet to help correct a chewing problem. In some cases, a second pet may serve to distract the destructive pet away from chewing, but it is just as likely that the problems could double, especially if the second pet is another puppy.
Chew On This...
The first step in correcting a chewing problem is to guide your puppy's chewing toward acceptable chew toys.
Choose a variety of good quality, safe products. When your puppy shows you what he likes, buy several more of the same type.
Hollow rubber toys work well since biscuits can be wedged inside for your puppy to pry out. This gives him a job to do and helps keep his focus away from your possessions.
Another way of keeping puppy focused on putting mouth on the toys is to each him to play fetch.
Never take proper chewing for granted. Take an active role in rewarding desirable chewing with lots of encouragement and praise.
Give your pet plenty of praise every time he chews on his toys. Occasionally give a small reward such as a biscuit, to strongly reinforce the behavior.
Protect Your Possessions!
Until you can trust your puppy, he must be under constant supervision or confined to a safe area. During times when he is with you, he might sneak off by himself to chew. Consider using a leash to keep him within eyesight. A crate, dog run, or safe room will keep him out of trouble when he cannot be watched.
As your puppy is allowed more freedom, he can be taught to avoid forbidden objects if you make them taste bad. Choose an effective, commercial bitter- or hot-tasting spray to safeguard objects. If he has the habit of chewing specific items, make sure that all such items are out of reach except one or two that are sprayed with a bad-tasting spray.
Every day, move the items to new positions around the house. In four or five days, change the type of item. This teaches the dog to leave such items alone because he associates it with a bad taste.
"Booby traps" are successful since they punish your puppy during the act and do not require your presence. A stack of empty beverage cans set up to fall over when something moves can be effective in safeguarding certain objects. Motion-activated alarms are often effective in teaching a puppy to stay off furniture or out of plants.
What Not to Do
Corrections and reprimands are rarely effective by themselves.
Under no circumstances should your puppy be spanked, slapped, kicked, or physically punished in any way. There is a risk he will become hand shy or a fear-biter. Instead, offer a verbal reprimand followed by encouragement to chew on a proper chew toy.
To be most effective, the reprimand must be given during or immediately after the misbehavior, and every time it occurs.
Reprimands, however, can backfire by either teaching to dog to be sneaky about chewing, or by teaching him not to chew anything, even toys, in your presence.
WEATHER SAFETY: Weather-Proofing Your Pet No Matter the Season
No Place Like Home
No matter what the weather, the best way to ensure comfort and safety of your pet is to keep it where you are comfortable and safe - in your house.
Consider offering your pet unlimited access to you house during weather extremes such as the hot, humid days of summer or the icy, cold days of winter.
As pets spend more time indoors, however, more issues may arise. Many pets that aren't used to being indoors may not know the rules and demonstrate normal yet destructive behaviors, such as chewing and clawing. Therefore, make sure you keep houseplants and valuables out of their reach.
Pets with access to the outdoors during warm weather may also bring in unwanted guests - fleas! And a change in seasons usually brings with it a change in coats. Regular brushing can reduce the amount of pet hair on your rugs and furniture.
Summer
Summer heat puts extra stress on your pet's body. Because of this, it's best to keep your pet inside where there is access to shade, water, and cool air whether from open windows or from air conditioning.
If your pet is outside all day make sure he has a shady area, preferably on grass since pavement tends to heat up in warm weather. Check at different times throughout the day to make sure the areas stay shaded.
You may need to give your pet extra water in the summer. Use larger water containers, or use special devices that attach to an easy to reach faucet for unlimited access.
Most veterinarians don't recommend shaving dogs or cats, since the hair helps keep them insulated against heat. Heavy-coated breeds of dogs and cats, however, are especially prone to heat illnesses, especially in hot and humid climates. For heavy-coated dogs, a wading pool to loll in on extra-hot days is appreciated - so keep one on hand!
Other animals at increased risk of overheating include senior pets, puppies and kittens, working pets, and flat-faced breeds like Pugs, Bulldogs, Pekingese, and Persians).
Keep Your Pets Away from "Ovens" - Cars and Exercise
If your dog or cat is used to running errands with you in your car, leave your pet at home during hot summer days. Even with the windows cracked, your car can reach 130 degrees inside in less than 30 minutes! Don't risk giving your pet a heat stroke!
Jogging or biking with your dog can also be dangerous in hot weather. Just as your body temperature rises during periods of extended exercise, so does your pet's. Unlike you, however, dogs and cats can't sweat. They must pant to rid their bodies of excess heat - an ineffective means of cooling off if the air outside is as warm as or warmer than inside their bodies.
Treating Overheating
The best way to treat overheating is prevention. If you notice, though, that your pet has abnormally rapid breathing, tremors, muscle weakness, vomiting, or fainting, your pet may have heat exhaustion.
Wet your pet with cool - not cold - water, place your pet in an area with a breeze, and then transport your pet to the veterinarian immediately.
Winter Safety
Cold weather also brings special care requirements for your pets. Again, the ideal place for your pets in cold weather is wherever you are comfortable, safe, and warm. That's indoors, where they have shelters from cold temperatures, drifting snow, and ice.
Outdoor pets require shelter with insulation, fresh food, and water that doesn't freeze. Consider buying and using an electric bowl heater to keep water from freezing.
Winter Walking
If you take your pet outside in snowy or icy weather, be sure to check its paws for cuts or ice balls. Winter also means sidewalks treated with chemical snow removers or salt, so you should also wipe your pet's paws clean with a damp, warm cloth after your walks.
Treating Frostbite
Cover chilled pets with blankets and allow them to regain normal body temperature gradually. Warm water baths - not hot baths - are another good way to gradually warm a chilled pet. Do not, however, use electric blankets or heating pads as they can burn your pet's skin.
If your pet is severely chilled or unresponsive, then seek veterinary help immediately!
Other Winter Concerns
Antifreeze, which contains ethylene glycol, poses a special danger to pets in the winter. Both dogs and cats are attracted by the sweet taste, and mere teaspoonfuls can cause kidney damage or death.
If you keep your cars and your pets in your garage, be sure your radiator does not leak. If you believe your pet has ingested antifreeze, contact your veterinarian immediately.
Treatment for antifreeze poisoning within two to four hours can save some pets.
Another potential hazard is carbon monoxide poisoning for pets kept in the garage during winter months. Never start your car and let it warm up in the garage unless you remove your pet to a safe area during that time.
PET LOSS AND SUPPORT: How to Deal with the Loss of a Loved One Facing Your Loss
The term "loved one" applies to companions of all types, human and animal. Yet many pet owners are unprepared to deal with the loss of a loved one, even if they have dealt with death in the past.
If your pet was part of a family unit, everyone should be included in the healing process, including young children.
Often family members may try to hide their grief from each other. It is best to allow everyone to tell their feelings so the family can move on. Don't be afraid to talk about your feelings and grief with others, such as extended family members, close friends, or counselors. It is best to talk with someone who will listen and understand.
Many well-intentioned family and friends may not understand the loss you are experiencing, especially if they don't have pets of their own. They may, however, still be willing to listen and help.
Life and Loss Cycles
Death is a natural part of the life cycle. Grieving, likewise, is a natural part of death. But when a beloved pet dies, you and your family may experience this grief differently.
It is important to understand that the length of time and type of emotion associated with grief varies. No two people grieve the same way, but becoming familiar with some patterns may help you be better prepared for times ahead.
There are four common emotions associated with death: Denial, anger, guilt, and depression.
Denial may begin when you realize your pet is dying. Facing the reality of your pet's illness, instead of trying to convince yourself and others that your pet is getting well, helps you better prepare for death.
Anger toward your pet or loved ones is also common. You may feel betrayed by your pet's death or feel that because others aren't showing visible signs of grief, they didn't care.
You may find yourself dwelling on your loss and the sadness you feel, a common symptom of depression. Or, you may blame yourself and others for your pet's death, which leads to feelings of guilt.
Acknowledging that these are common feelings and allowing others to help you through the grieving process is the best way to deal with these feelings. Since each family member may have bonded differently with your pet, each person may have a different reaction to the loss. In addition, children may need some special attention during these times.
Pet Loss Support
The loss of a pet can be emotionally traumatic. Fortunately, there are effective support resources to help owners cope with grief. Many veterinary schools and organizations like Bideawee have formed their own hotlines or counseling sessions to provide sympathetic, nonjudgmental outlets for people facing the death of a cherished pet. Hotlines and counseling groups are usually staffed by trained, volunteer veterinary students, veterinarians, veterinarian technicians, or persons specializing in pet loss and support.
Pet Burial and Cremation and Other Services
You may choose to perform formal funeral services to commemorate your pet's passing. There are private and charitable organizations that can help you bury or cremate your pet, either through full-service programs or by arranging for caskets, plots, and other items.
Your veterinarian or local shelter can help you decide how to put your pet to rest and recommend you to a local cemetery.
Remembering Your Pet
There are many ways in which you can remember your pet:
Write down your memories or create a photo album.
Plant a tree or place a memorial birdbath in your garden.
Make a donation to a pet-related charity.
When Is It Time for a New Pet?
Just as the grieving process is different for everyone, so is the decision about getting a new pet. Some people may never want to get a new pet, while others may adopt right away.
This is a decision only you and your family can make. Waiting until you and your family are ready for a new pet is always the best decision.
Bideawee Pet Memorial Parks and Pet Loss Support Groups
Bideawee offers two Pet Memorial Parks at our Westhampton and Wantagh, Long Island locations that can arrange for the burial or cremation of a beloved pet. The parks are dignified sanctuaries where families and individuals may visit, to express their loss and to memorialize their love for a pet that gave them untiring loyalty and devotion.
The Pet Memorial Parks staff can arrange for transportation of your pet from either your veterinarian's office or your home, or from one of our adoption centers. The staff can also help you plan for burial or cremation, from selecting burial containers and caskets to placing summer flowers and winter greens for your pet's resting place.
Please contact our parks at 631.325.0219 (Westhampton) or 516.785.6153.
Support Groups: At Bideawee, we believe that our four-legged companions are important parts of the family. Saying goodbye to our loving animal companions can be a tough and very emotional journey. Bideawee wants you to know that you are not alone. Since there are many people experiencing the same loss Bideawee is now providing a support system to deal with your loss.
Each support group is facilitated by one of Bideawee's qualified volunteers who specialize in animal bereavement.
Our pet loss support groups happen every first Friday of the month. Please contact our Manhattan Learning Center at 212.532.4986 or manhattanlearning@bideawee.org to learn more.
FELINE OBESITY
Helping Kitty Lose the Weight
An obese cat is not a pretty sight. Cumbersome and clumsy, a cat suffers a marked deterioration in mobility and appearance. His decrease flexibility leads to an inability to thoroughly groom himself and he becomes subject to skin problems. Obese cats also face an increased risk of contracting diabetes and are poor candidates for surgery and anesthesia.
Obesity happens when an animal consistently takes in more calories than needed. Some contributing factors include overfeeding, inactivity, reproductive status, environment, body type, age, and genetic predisposition.
Assessing Your Cat's Body Condition
Assessing your cat's body condition is an important first step in the overall evaluation of your cat's nutritional well-being, and can especially help in determining feline obesity. The Cat Body Condition Chart below shows the different body conditions of cats.
Cat Body Condition Chart
Thin Cat
Ribs, lumbar vertebrae and pelvic bones easily visible
Thin neck and narrow waist
Obvious abdominal tuck
No fat in flank folds, folds often absent
Underweight Cat
Backbone and ribs easily palpable
Minimal fat covering
Minimal waist when viewed from above
Slightly tucked abdomen
Ideal Cat
Ribs palpable, but not visible
Slight waist observed behind ribs when viewed from above
Abdomen tucked up, flank fold present
Overweight Cat
Slight increase in fat over ribs, but still easily palpable
Abdomen slightly rounded, flanks concave
Flank folds hang down with moderate amount of fat-jiggle noted when walking
Obese Cat
Ribs and backbone not easily palpable under a heavy fat covering Abdomen rounded; waist barely visible to absent Prominent flank folds which sway from side to side when walking
Visit Your Veterinarian
Weight problems are one of the leading issues veterinarians deal with on a daily basis. Therefore, if you suspect that your cat is either overweight or obese, a complete evaluation by a veterinarian is not only recommended, but a good idea.
Your veterinarian will probably ask you some questions about your cat, such as what and how much your cat is eating, and how much physical activity your cat gets. Answering these questions honestly will help your veterinarian recommend some simple changes that may help improve your cat's weight.
Your veterinarian may also perform some tests. A few medical conditions may contribute to obesity. You will want to rule these out before you proceed with any weight loss or weight management program.
Getting Started
Your veterinarian may suggest that you reduce the amount you feed your cat first. If so, begin by reducing the daily portion by 25%. Continue decreasing intake by 10% increments every two to three weeks until your cat lose 1% of its initial weight. This means that if your cat weighs 15 pounds, a 1% loss would about 2-1/2 ounces.
If you feed one large meal a day, or keep food available at all times, try dividing the daily ration into several small meals (at least two a day) and pick up what has not been eaten within 30 minutes after each meal.
Weight-Loss Diets
Your veterinarian may suggest you change your cat's diet to one specifically designed for weight loss. Portion control will still be necessary. Your cat, however, will most likely be able to eat more of the special food than if she was consuming her regular diet.
A diet based in replacement of some fat with highly-digestible carbohydrates is a good low-calorie alternative. Digestible carbohydrates contain less than one-half the calories of equal quantities of fat, and do not have the disadvantages of indigestible fiber. High-fiber foods may reduce the digestibility and absorption of many nutrients. High-fiber diets may also result in large and frequent stools, and decreased skin and coat conditions.
Feeding a diet that contains the carbohydrates corn and sorghum can result in lower blood-sugar and insulin levels, as compared to feeding a diet that contains rice as the primary carbohydrate source. Lower blood sugar and insulin levels can also help with maintaining a proper weight.
In addition, a diet that contains L-carnitine will help to induce weight loss. L-carnitine is a vitamin-like compound that helps with fat metabolism. Vitamin A is another nutrient that can help with the "battle of the bulge." Boosting dietary intake of vitamin A has been shown to decrease the likelihood of weight gain in cats.
Changing Diets
Changing diets can be a stressful time for pets. So if you veterinarian recommends changing diets, proceed slowly.
Begin by mixing a daily portion that includes 25% new food with 75% of the old food. The next day, increase the amount of the new food with 50% and decrease the old food to 50% of the daily portion. Continue increasing the proportions during the next few days until the daily portion consists entirely of the new diet.
This method increases the likelihood of acceptance of the new diet and decreases the occurrence of gastrointestinal upsets.
Play Ball!
Another way to help you cat lose weight is to increase your cat's activity level. Provide cat "trees" for climbing. Teach your cat to play fetch. Buy or create your own toys that encourage exercise. Many cats enjoy chasing lasers or lights from pointers or flashlights. One ingenious owner throws her cat's dry food ration, a piece at a time, to get her cat moving! Many enjoy learning to walk on a leash. You can also use your cat's natural hunting instinct to help her lose weight. Hide several small portions of her daily food ration around the house. If you have a multi-level house, make your cat use the stairs.
Use your imagination, but be cautious. Don't let a fat cat become exhausted, overheated, or out of breath. Also keep in mind that older cats may not be able to exercise vigorously.
Use playtime, grooming, stroking, or conversation as rewards instead of food treats. If you cannot resist the fat cat who begs for food at the dinner table, remove the cat during dinnertime.
If yours is a multi-cat household, the consistent winner of the food competition sweepstakes is often obese. If this is the case, separate the cats at mealtimes if at all possible.
Patience!
Obesity is easier to prevent than to cure. It is never too late, though, to reverse obesity, though it requires long-term patience and commitment. Weight reduction in cats is a slow process. If food intake is too severely restricted, other health problems in your cat can arise.
Increased activity, behavior modification - for both you and your cat - and calorie restriction are your weapons against feline obesity. With all these things, it is important to expect a few setbacks and plateaus as well. It will take at least four months for an obese cat to realize a 15% weight loss.
At that point, you can reassess your cat's body condition and proceed from there. And congratulate yourself and your cat for success!
SWITCHING DIETS
SWITCH-UPS - How to Get Your Dog or Cat on a New Diet
Why Switch Diets?
At some point in your pet's life, you will probably be faced with the challenge of switching your pet's diet - usually for your dog's or cat's health. Whether it's to change to adult food, to senior food, or for weight-loss purposes, or if you just want to introduce a new pet food, it's important to make the switch as easy as possible for your pet.
Introducing a New Diet
Most pet owners switch their dog or cat's diet to enhance their pet's health. Your pet's health, however, will most likely suffer if he resists change and stops eating; so switching your pet's diet to a new food takes planning.
Dogs and cats, like people, are creatures of habit. And like humans, they may become accustomed to certain foods and not welcome a disruption to their routine. With the following tips, you'll increase the likelihood of a smooth transition.
Introduce the new food gradually. This is the most successful way to ease your pet into the change in his diet. Begin by mixing the new food with the old a little at a time, as seen in the chart provided below. Slowly change the proportion throughout four days or so by gradually increasing the amount of new food and decreasing the amount of old food until you are feeding only the new food.
Use positive body language. Introducing the new food using a pleasant tone of voice and gently encouraging your dog or cat to try it is far more enticing than bringing a new food into your home, placing it into a bowl, and declaring that your dog or cat had better eat it.
Patience, patience, and more patience. It is important not to give up too soon! During the initial four-day period, do not give your dog or cat treats or table scraps! Pets often train us as much as we train them. Giving in to their demands only reinforces their bad behavior, and will make it more difficult to make a nutritious dietary change.
Some pets pick out only the old diet in the mix, while others will pick out only the new diet. In either case, keep mixing the two diets. Some dogs and cats may refuse to eat. A healthy pet can miss a few meals or eat a little less with no ill effects. If you are concerned, however, don't hesitate to contact your veterinarian.
Change the presentation without changing the nutrition. Sometimes it helps to make the new diet more attractive without changing the nutrition. Some ideas include mixing a little warm water with the food. Or, you may even want to put the moistened food in the microwave for a few seconds.
If you mix food and water, however, it is important to discard any uneaten portion after 20 minutes to prevent spoilage. After the dog or cat has become accustomed to the new "moistened" food, you can begin switching slowly to dry food. This approach is also helpful when switching from a canned food to a dry food.
It's Important to Remember...
Regardless of what food you choose, dogs and cats must have plenty of fresh, clean water available at all times. Placing the water three to five feet from the food will help prevent your pet from gulping water and air in addition to food.
Dogs and cats thrive on a routine. Feed them at the same time and place every day to establish a comfortable eating pattern.
And remember, dogs and need to visit the veterinarian regularly. Regular visits help to keep your pet happy and healthy!
Diet Changes May Invoke Other Changes!
When a dog or cat is switched to a new diet, pet owners may notice other changes, too. Behavioral and physical changes may be evident during and after the diet transition period.
These changes may be due to difference in nutrient content or to the minor stress of a change in routine. These may changes in coat color, water intake, or energy level. These and similar changes aren't usually harmful to pets.
Yet you should never hesitate to contact your veterinarian if you are concerned about changes in your pet's behavior or appearance.
Tips for Success
TREATS FOR DOGS AND CATS
Looking for a way to do something just a little special for your favorite pooch or kitty? How about making some treats that are not only special, but easy to make? We've found the following homemade food recipes for treats that are not only tasty for your cat and dog: They're also healthy!
FOR CATS:
Tuna Patties (from Healthy Recipes for Pets, www.healthyrecipesforpets.com)
What you need:
1 can tuna
1/2 cup boiled rice
1/4 cup pureed liver
2-3 sprigs parsley, chopped
How to make the patties:
Drain the tuna and mix everything together. Make six to seven balls and then pat them into patties. Store in the fridge and serve to your cat. This is one cat treat recipe that your feline friend won't be finicky about!
FOR DOGS:
Easy Cheesy Treats (from Doggy Bistro, www.doggybistro.com)
What you need:
1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1 3/4 cups grated cheddar cheese, room temperature
1 stick margarine
How to make the treats:
Blend cheese with margarine and flour. Shape into 2 logs, about 2 " wide. Chill in the refrigerator. Cut into 1/4" slices and place on greased cookie sheet. Bake in 375°F oven for 15 minutes or until brown and firm. Allow to cool completely before serving.
